British Cyclocross Championships 2014, Derby

The best of UK cyclocross talent were at Moorways Leisure centre today. Here are some photos from the elite mens race. The pit is always a busy place:

Power washers at work. I wonder what's in the yellow wheelie bin...

 Ian Bibby getting down. Now that's not a Genesis bike, is it? It be a Ridley.

Salsa in the mud. Look at those feet go! 

Balletic movement by Ian Field. Total concentration he was, all day, on the way to what I think is a threepeat national title. 

Mucky sticky mud everywhere, causing errors. But he was probably thinking "this is not as nasty as Namur!"

Take a look at Ian Field's Focus (yes, that's a Specialized, but I was referring to his eyes, not the bike brand!).

 He made it look so easy... He dealt with the pressure really well. It's tough at the top!!

 Nick Craig, proper punchy power.

 I love this picture. This is what Cyclocross is about!

 Hargroves lead out on to the "dancefloor".

 Stu Bowers getting shouted at:

Vicious Velo, looking well vicious. 

Yep, an interesting day out (remember to take a spare pair of shoes though!)  Plus there was the womens event (won by Helen Wyman, her 8th title), Juniors and U23 (which we missed). All this for the price of a small donation to the local Scout organisation - you've gotta go watch some cyclocross. 

Neat Exustar CK2 Covers for SPD Cleats

These are fantastic, and great value for money too. I bought two pairs. No more Bambi-on-Ice moments in the Cafe!

Here you can see the other side of the little rubber cap. They slot very easily over the cleat and when you're about to get on the bike, they remove easily and occupy a tiny amount of space in your jersey pocket. 

The packaging. Sorry, I couldn't rotate these photos, so you'll have to rubber neck a little. Click them to enlarge. 

Exustar do various versions for different cleat types, as per the table below (click to enlarge).

And a little bird on a fencepost, just for the sake of it!

Genesis Equilibrium Build Log Part 3: "Pretty Weirdo"

As a build log, this will be rubbish! I say this because the bike is finished, but I didn't take any pictures along the way. So, I present to you: Pretty Weirdo!

Why that name? If you remember, the build criterion was use whatever stuff I have lying around. Because of that, I ended up with a good looking 6 speed road bike, running cross tyres!

Rear derailleur: Shimano Tourney RD-TX35

Cassette: Shimano 6 speed 14-28T (screw on freewheel type)

Chainset: Mighty 170 alloy cranks 44T steel teeth

Bottom bracket: Neco Shimano compatible square taper cartridge

Chain: KMC with quick link

Front chain-keeper: Deda dog-fang

Shifters: Sunrace 6 speed bar mounted lever

Headset: Ritchey Logic V2

Handlebars: ITM Vitus alloy 46cm (I think this is the o-o measurement, but haven't checked) 

Bar tape: Deda, champagne

Stem: Ritchey Comp 120mm

Brakes: Miche Performance dual-pivot caliper, long drop 57mm

Brake levers: Tektro

Frame: 56cm Genesis Reynolds 725 heat treated chro-moly steel alloy butted (rear dropouts standard road ~130mm), two bottle cage mounts, mudguard eyelets.

Rims: Weinmann AS23X alloy, nutted axles

Hubs: Quando alloy

Tyres: Maxxis Raze 700x33 folding

Basic pedals. Below, grab your steed and jump on! 

Seatpost: Alpina alloy 27.2mm

Saddle: Charge Bucket

Forks: Genesis carbon, alloy steerer 1 1/8", (standard road width ~100mm)

The frame looks beautiful and feels great to ride. Comfortable, yet lively. However, it is too small for me and I can't get over that fact. Therefore, she's on sale now (please see the CTC forum, and later next week, on eBay.co.uk).

Snow!

Time to have some fun on the cyclocross bike. There's nothing like it! The tyres are Challenge Grifo  700x33 clinchers (what they call "open tubulars", but they are not tubulars!). 

How to change brake pads: Clarks V inserts, Tektro CR720 cantilevers (cartridge)

In muddy, wet conditions, brake pads wear out very fast. Replacing cartridge type pads is quick and somehow satisfying. I'm a fan of Clarks brake stuff, because quite simply, I've never been disappointed after buying any of their products. I also like Kool Stop, but they are pricier. So, step one, dismantle your brake assemblies, and clean up the alloy holders (soapy water and an old toothbrush - rinse well in clean water, and dry off with a paper towel). 

These CP501 70mm insert cartridge pads are very cheap (less than £4 a pair), but in my experience, feel good and work well. They would fit V, Hybrid, Touring, MTB - basically Shimano pattern cartridge holders. The pads come with new retaining pins (you can see them taped to the cardboard pack above). Below, you can see the "forward" arrow markings on both pad and holder, and the cutout for the pin on the pad.

Simply slide them in, but at the point shown in the photo below, remember to put the bolt back in position before fully pushing the pads home. I hold the pads with my fingers and press the holder down on a flat surface. 

Here the pad is pushed home (you should be able to see daylight through the little hole). Then simply push the retaining pins in. 

Put the bits and bobs back on the bolt in the original order, finishing with the washer and nut. Below they are all ready to be fitted back on the bike.  

I have to say that I find the Clarks pads to be an improvement on the Tektro pads that came with the original brakes. The great thing about cartridge type brake pads is that you can try out a few different brands and types - e.g. dual or triple compound varieties - in order to find the ones that you most prefer. There's a huge choice out there, and a wide spectrum of prices!

Round 10 Wessex CX League - NHRC at War Memorial Park, Basingstoke

North Hampshire Road Club created a superb course for Round 10, which was also the South of England cyclocross championships. The start of the JVW race was given a staggered treatment. Juniors off first, then V40-49, V50+ and W, each group starting a few seconds after the previous one. Here, the finish line and timekeeping tent.

When the seniors came by, Steve James and Adrian Lansley (who eventually finished 1st and 2nd) made this off camber section look really easy. It was NOT for the less skilled riders - like me!

They simply flew round it, whereas others would go round gingerly, or take less efficient lines.

There was a bank on the far side, which you had to build a lot of speed in the run up in order to climb it. Many riders came a cropper on it, normally near the top, as their speed ran out, and then they, slipped down because it was steep. The corner below was a lot of fun!

Part of the course went through a BMX track, which was totally fantastic. Also a grindy bit through mud and leaves in the woods, with a bit of a drag, and the obligatory banana skin tree roots. Even the hurdles were placed "thoughtfully" - after a slightly uphill left hander, then over the hurdles into a running right hander, not easy to remount unless you run on a bit. Yep, it was proper cyclocross today!

Genesis Equilibrium Build Log Part 2: Drivetrain thoughts

In a previous post here, I described some ways of configuring single speed for a road bike conversion. The Equilibrium frame has vertical rear dropouts. These do not allow chain tension adjustment for single speed mode. You need to have some, because a slack chain is dangerous!

A common solution is to use a chain tensioner:

These normally screw into the rear mech boss and use a sprung lever to tension the chain, usually by an jockey wheel or similar, running against the chain. It's even possible to use an old rear mech as a chain tensioner (e.g. by running the chain round the lower jockey wheel only).

However, I don't like these ideas much, as the silent, simple, smooth, single speed feel can't be fully achieved when there's a wheel tensioning the chain.

One option is to forget about single speed, and use a cassette and rear derailleur. It so happens that I have some wheels that are nutted solid axle, the rear having a screw-on freewheel, and I have a suitable 6 speed block. The only thing that bothers me is the possibility that at extreme angles, the chain may drop off the chainwheel. A prevention mechanism for that is to use a chainset with inner and outer chain guards, but that may be hard to find at a reasonable price. Another option there is to fit an old front mech to act as a chainwheel chain keeper.

The concept for this build is to keep it simple, cheap, and that means re-using parts that I already have, so far as possible. It looks like I'm going to have to experiment quite a bit. As I said, this may end up a weird bike!