tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48311435209662952912024-03-12T21:10:42.040-07:00Chuck Glider's Bicycle WorkshopBlogging about bike building, maintenance and tweaksChuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.comBlogger87125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-45564437621125850612021-04-19T08:54:00.004-07:002021-04-19T08:54:50.656-07:00Raleigh Twenty Project: Latest renovation finished, BSA 20<p>Finally finished! Here are photos of the bike I've been renovating. Remember the rust was mainly on the mudguards (fenders) and chainguard, so I had those powder coated Light Ivory, RAL 1015 by a local business. Chose that colour because I thought it would make a great retro-looking contrast to the traditional Raleigh "bronze green" paintwork.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxu7mEp5eROxB2-lAQGIxPLIDxXoNRR1swrpd3LG4rzpZQuJiQv4nXWBfBM-jyNGaXHohhWEUlfgdLczYwtZ7-hjc0A2lhHq0Nt80uv7rmMAHgXtQkFRQ9KbsLVEBzFTYgE5WC6R0Xg5Q/s2048/PXL_20210419_103335771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1479" data-original-width="2048" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxu7mEp5eROxB2-lAQGIxPLIDxXoNRR1swrpd3LG4rzpZQuJiQv4nXWBfBM-jyNGaXHohhWEUlfgdLczYwtZ7-hjc0A2lhHq0Nt80uv7rmMAHgXtQkFRQ9KbsLVEBzFTYgE5WC6R0Xg5Q/w400-h289/PXL_20210419_103335771.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPAjNhFYlD1sgLMTOGyEGs1D4kbncAf2d_Bu6Q14fD_oDw8KXcX1WmIUzM2pUfV91KrhHEx5fdkB6huXcwoCRb0FUxUbID90fNZZJe0Bn3d-gb0cNd5wWK-TrqE5tK1kpGgLnZ7dHXok/s2048/PXL_20210419_103348625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1782" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPAjNhFYlD1sgLMTOGyEGs1D4kbncAf2d_Bu6Q14fD_oDw8KXcX1WmIUzM2pUfV91KrhHEx5fdkB6huXcwoCRb0FUxUbID90fNZZJe0Bn3d-gb0cNd5wWK-TrqE5tK1kpGgLnZ7dHXok/w348-h400/PXL_20210419_103348625.jpg" width="348" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9FDCoIdr-H6YzfiH0zq4ClBtRbhX32e2voyYjzqE-wZu1lB0V3cQnh6p_OVUQYrDNTxURPexDRh9a9Tj7ahZQliTbhNocK9SK-XfXxl8hCASP95H31RztUz8ML6FDuNA6Kgf4oUGu8Q/s2048/PXL_20210419_102822902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1179" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9FDCoIdr-H6YzfiH0zq4ClBtRbhX32e2voyYjzqE-wZu1lB0V3cQnh6p_OVUQYrDNTxURPexDRh9a9Tj7ahZQliTbhNocK9SK-XfXxl8hCASP95H31RztUz8ML6FDuNA6Kgf4oUGu8Q/w230-h400/PXL_20210419_102822902.jpg" width="230" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLIPtrTo3_o-2csP0EHRxuwMOi8bYdNtqyZEKLF5Av8ej5oDBKmUFEEp7HY_bKzZM2sLv0DxCk_FMXcqxg2cuYBsma1hBa7ukGHPAw-IlsAzNQ-1FKYkqonLlOpcErZflaATGXD4vH1Q/s2048/PXL_20210419_102838784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1085" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLIPtrTo3_o-2csP0EHRxuwMOi8bYdNtqyZEKLF5Av8ej5oDBKmUFEEp7HY_bKzZM2sLv0DxCk_FMXcqxg2cuYBsma1hBa7ukGHPAw-IlsAzNQ-1FKYkqonLlOpcErZflaATGXD4vH1Q/w400-h213/PXL_20210419_102838784.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Carradice roll saddlebag. Also, I think it's fun and ironic to use a modern Dahon folding bike saddle. Actually the main reason was the tall distance between rail and saddle top. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDvIoFOnPL_LwkmsfBhC6X96Lu-tFBNzeM400tYGcnUtIg_YIxsXb9fWgXI0djlO0Qj43TSUfxxerZD400In6dVk92d5csgyoRoYj64RTs9tR5BnCWmDioqbrj20nwMyEJrAw6HFnU_JU/s2048/PXL_20210419_103401142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1805" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDvIoFOnPL_LwkmsfBhC6X96Lu-tFBNzeM400tYGcnUtIg_YIxsXb9fWgXI0djlO0Qj43TSUfxxerZD400In6dVk92d5csgyoRoYj64RTs9tR5BnCWmDioqbrj20nwMyEJrAw6HFnU_JU/w353-h400/PXL_20210419_103401142.jpg" width="353" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJGlU2ldPAZAawYGeb30e3ZPbmzjOtuzCEyqF1t8S_VVIGKD65AS5ezoPsbtSy_xICbg17amDq1zCwYaU2V4e6J22BdJSgrGOFN5rePShNg3AbwRXGpj_o3ufc54hS-Bp6TYkIqOvx1DQ/s2686/PXL_20210419_103411678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2686" data-original-width="1170" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJGlU2ldPAZAawYGeb30e3ZPbmzjOtuzCEyqF1t8S_VVIGKD65AS5ezoPsbtSy_xICbg17amDq1zCwYaU2V4e6J22BdJSgrGOFN5rePShNg3AbwRXGpj_o3ufc54hS-Bp6TYkIqOvx1DQ/w174-h400/PXL_20210419_103411678.jpg" width="174" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLrrJYj-83G2svVGmk8xBLG1r7oFTxiw-F-eZF2_XrxKjxaOmzQ3AFrwzZ2fuM_T-qX8Ue1jVxZBDa3RAy2-hQJuOWsk2gAfarGGJLYWb8pxc2lBOsi5Puln8Zp0bw35MnD7xJ3aU3GwI/s2048/PXL_20210419_103423596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1664" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLrrJYj-83G2svVGmk8xBLG1r7oFTxiw-F-eZF2_XrxKjxaOmzQ3AFrwzZ2fuM_T-qX8Ue1jVxZBDa3RAy2-hQJuOWsk2gAfarGGJLYWb8pxc2lBOsi5Puln8Zp0bw35MnD7xJ3aU3GwI/s320/PXL_20210419_103423596.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvwW4iXYkSCGz1arVlT0voIjTI6Xa9eqN2PE2M2bZdx19PeL8xC2NGTXe3bo6RJj-FF0RoUsNHMzi6sWEhuq9jr3D8ifSJD20miZDODRUNa0_MvGI5fzRBOXgPDefZcowrBX7igtw70E/s2048/PXL_20210419_103434893.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="2048" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvwW4iXYkSCGz1arVlT0voIjTI6Xa9eqN2PE2M2bZdx19PeL8xC2NGTXe3bo6RJj-FF0RoUsNHMzi6sWEhuq9jr3D8ifSJD20miZDODRUNa0_MvGI5fzRBOXgPDefZcowrBX7igtw70E/w400-h375/PXL_20210419_103434893.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhghO8wF0x50bGRqRBGpCJlilpXiSUmT7HjPWQ_mL7D1Si8AGrzoyD5kpRvQ-CkaT2d374LrTyadu9czQQVfW1dbZXhFFsMOTDfJ7IRsiEPQWS-O5_qcM_V4A8Az2APjkKfvn-WIF2IU-U/s2048/PXL_20210419_103446012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1244" data-original-width="2048" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhghO8wF0x50bGRqRBGpCJlilpXiSUmT7HjPWQ_mL7D1Si8AGrzoyD5kpRvQ-CkaT2d374LrTyadu9czQQVfW1dbZXhFFsMOTDfJ7IRsiEPQWS-O5_qcM_V4A8Az2APjkKfvn-WIF2IU-U/w400-h243/PXL_20210419_103446012.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC4Xe-0OnV5CLov9v8fc0MlVR1rVYnIdfBstab7FQkGnKhBr9gBgCtfUqwjvR9j_hCO1HTnYSlkzti6fFPMVMFfXbF9zq1A0_NDBD7RivuXw2eIZJkpmGGjpV_wnneku4z7sQr7sdawAM/s2048/PXL_20210419_103500836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1415" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC4Xe-0OnV5CLov9v8fc0MlVR1rVYnIdfBstab7FQkGnKhBr9gBgCtfUqwjvR9j_hCO1HTnYSlkzti6fFPMVMFfXbF9zq1A0_NDBD7RivuXw2eIZJkpmGGjpV_wnneku4z7sQr7sdawAM/w276-h400/PXL_20210419_103500836.jpg" width="276" /></a></div><p>And yes, that is a GOLD chain, KMC 510s with a "snap on" connecter and stepped half link. For anyone who doesn't follow what I mean here, a normal chain can only be an even number of links long. The Raleigh Twenty chain, as far as I've seen them, tends to be 93 links long, which means you need a stepped half link. This diagram should explain it all:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslsT44dxYyiwoX0V1gqDJR8rV5HIYVGREiEc6xhiNYWEJxYMINwWovj5B5NpbgBZ7lKZXjDykgvVsxS18MgdjWnJojtHuox_vrkEZpAQ2nJ3V9pvVpwTOwuHAswnd1SzQeDb8BjD5-Kk/s628/PXL_20210325_182710994.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="628" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslsT44dxYyiwoX0V1gqDJR8rV5HIYVGREiEc6xhiNYWEJxYMINwWovj5B5NpbgBZ7lKZXjDykgvVsxS18MgdjWnJojtHuox_vrkEZpAQ2nJ3V9pvVpwTOwuHAswnd1SzQeDb8BjD5-Kk/s320/PXL_20210325_182710994.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>No. 2 in the top sketch is the stepped half link. No. 1 in both sketches is the joining link, in this case a "snap on" type. You should always put the wider part of the stepped half link forward on the top run of the chain. In other words, the top sketch above, is a view from above on the bike, with chainwheel to the right and the rear sprocket to the left. </p><p>It feels elegant to ride and is a pleasant way to get around (SANS LYCRA!) </p>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-64740582285735807672021-04-19T08:29:00.006-07:002021-04-19T08:31:57.734-07:00Sturmey Archer 3 Speed Shifter: Make a new Cover Plate<p>It's common for the cover plate on the ubiquitous Sturmey Archer shifter to fall off and disappear. It leaves behind a sticky mess on the plastic top like this:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgpheVho78eVZoJ8Z58Wjwqq0VX8e-o7oJhP5NY2mJOJ7hv_ihBpmrjdQu8C-pZbo0Qmi49dFwMo5IVCA5vvkoWGRygpGTTUAL5mCnP6QIwxFbG6YNzgGArHtTVSokCwLHWwCsAPs5F0/s1483/PXL_20210414_220504474.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1360" data-original-width="1483" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgpheVho78eVZoJ8Z58Wjwqq0VX8e-o7oJhP5NY2mJOJ7hv_ihBpmrjdQu8C-pZbo0Qmi49dFwMo5IVCA5vvkoWGRygpGTTUAL5mCnP6QIwxFbG6YNzgGArHtTVSokCwLHWwCsAPs5F0/w400-h366/PXL_20210414_220504474.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>I find it easiest to remove the goo with a bit of paraffin on a rag, then wash up with soapy water, and dry, leaving a clean plastic top:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQgbB3Bm-pQuGHWXvWmmaP5sW3if2ol-lVzSN0yc2_DtcDtny5dwQOAbAlf4icIX2_PCBCsf248OH8nS_JIOehMdH4fUaYCoOuoiOBnpnTd79VqgcZPgIbR2JzbkM3kdbiMztsivoEJs/s1401/PXL_20210414_221945426.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1187" data-original-width="1401" height="339" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQgbB3Bm-pQuGHWXvWmmaP5sW3if2ol-lVzSN0yc2_DtcDtny5dwQOAbAlf4icIX2_PCBCsf248OH8nS_JIOehMdH4fUaYCoOuoiOBnpnTd79VqgcZPgIbR2JzbkM3kdbiMztsivoEJs/w400-h339/PXL_20210414_221945426.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>From this, you need to make a suitable replacement cover plate. If I had some tracing paper, that would probably work, but I didn't so instead used a bit of water paint to stamp the shape on to paper:<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Tb51_ojbjHwLPPkKSoiLRWzIbMfntOO2fz8g51TMLas6-1oL4gWVFwEiPSZniGiFqjf8Mpz8qM9WgR7AKEWz8-HRSwfyVyi9vpbEBj4BfQrU3FVE0cdtKVUC7y6ik5Wmu_yQCs8am78/s1109/PXL_20210414_222600259.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="836" data-original-width="1109" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Tb51_ojbjHwLPPkKSoiLRWzIbMfntOO2fz8g51TMLas6-1oL4gWVFwEiPSZniGiFqjf8Mpz8qM9WgR7AKEWz8-HRSwfyVyi9vpbEBj4BfQrU3FVE0cdtKVUC7y6ik5Wmu_yQCs8am78/w400-h301/PXL_20210414_222600259.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Cut this out carefully, trimming so that it fits nicely in within the raised border of the plastic cap:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5RtCW5Znp4__RAIVADl2iC3GjwRXrGB2W0AcBoMSe7k-Fe_EQ6qWwzwKyFOkHBlY6JnbBeBxDPXZl-wXtJm_cBh8huISOJe0OZEb4MDl5dI3HUx_lYOkd1QpC7PYjhrpYeR81x46ONs/s1306/PXL_20210414_223356753.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1173" data-original-width="1306" height="359" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB5RtCW5Znp4__RAIVADl2iC3GjwRXrGB2W0AcBoMSe7k-Fe_EQ6qWwzwKyFOkHBlY6JnbBeBxDPXZl-wXtJm_cBh8huISOJe0OZEb4MDl5dI3HUx_lYOkd1QpC7PYjhrpYeR81x46ONs/w400-h359/PXL_20210414_223356753.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Use the paper template to cut out a replacement cover plate out of a suitable material. In this case, I decided to go for 1.5mm thick birch ply, because I had some handy:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6aeiAAcXA-8gci74tUIXwRJPaSpINLhQpCdB_y_S-3zxeg0wzVTOx_7OYDvf8k4scvfud4vPqA4n7WTjczQ8FFbBz5q49AW-CgEQlyL5RY8HgnjZRsoqR87WvmpYFhOQctifgbBFQhQw/s1709/PXL_20210414_223607934.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1553" data-original-width="1709" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6aeiAAcXA-8gci74tUIXwRJPaSpINLhQpCdB_y_S-3zxeg0wzVTOx_7OYDvf8k4scvfud4vPqA4n7WTjczQ8FFbBz5q49AW-CgEQlyL5RY8HgnjZRsoqR87WvmpYFhOQctifgbBFQhQw/w400-h364/PXL_20210414_223607934.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div> After some deft scissor and sandpaper work, you end up with this:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABC0PDHQjPdeiA2yrOE7Eu3Y9XZGWQXfCVWX6qMK97O25dX4vs7dzoyO3WfH2gJGgh_aRi_gExCWz5rTG0piP3l3igsvVNJsOorB9X1PDKjW5Pr17CHi7kIs_BpGYqezR8jggGoY5Fr8/s1682/PXL_20210414_231916908.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1682" data-original-width="1612" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABC0PDHQjPdeiA2yrOE7Eu3Y9XZGWQXfCVWX6qMK97O25dX4vs7dzoyO3WfH2gJGgh_aRi_gExCWz5rTG0piP3l3igsvVNJsOorB9X1PDKjW5Pr17CHi7kIs_BpGYqezR8jggGoY5Fr8/w384-h400/PXL_20210414_231916908.jpg" width="384" /></a></div><br /><div>Which I then brushed with 2 coats of clear varnish, wrote on the numbers and gave it another coat of varnish. Turned it over and applied some double sided sticky tape to the underside:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC2sKjfYtzfEXgY2QcdmoB-N_4XdW-DScIgRiV7tkIHd0aAoVI0z1HI5ncIK9RwoeXMenxPlzWbUPFre4vQDJZPLmuDOSXCxmSBpVkcoEYGeOR7XUqhQ5TJGIbDyRG366c1oysyeUnwAg/s1298/PXL_20210419_101320359.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1041" data-original-width="1298" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC2sKjfYtzfEXgY2QcdmoB-N_4XdW-DScIgRiV7tkIHd0aAoVI0z1HI5ncIK9RwoeXMenxPlzWbUPFre4vQDJZPLmuDOSXCxmSBpVkcoEYGeOR7XUqhQ5TJGIbDyRG366c1oysyeUnwAg/w400-h321/PXL_20210419_101320359.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>And finally, below a pic of the finished item on the bike. Obviously, one can take as much time as one likes on this kind of thing. I also removed the rust from the round head bolt that fixes it down. Now I can't help imagining a tortoiseshell or mother of pearl cover plate...</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivM9GARhkIjtsls3_NsBAA93liWlNaZwmwtDj87J4O8u_bcQQrwNdxqKprZj-lOvhyphenhyphenkO3mQ0XpNotHUUb2WLfBFg8LwAb7jkP0qChY388M_tUv8wLfdXbcp7TiQ2n2DWsaMOHZ2DkbhVU/s2048/PXL_20210419_102838784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1085" data-original-width="2048" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivM9GARhkIjtsls3_NsBAA93liWlNaZwmwtDj87J4O8u_bcQQrwNdxqKprZj-lOvhyphenhyphenkO3mQ0XpNotHUUb2WLfBFg8LwAb7jkP0qChY388M_tUv8wLfdXbcp7TiQ2n2DWsaMOHZ2DkbhVU/w640-h340/PXL_20210419_102838784.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-4025284651481203502021-04-13T13:45:00.006-07:002021-04-14T16:45:30.954-07:00Raleigh Twenty handlebar grips<p>The standard Raleigh Twenty hand grips are plastic, yellowing and uncomfortable. They are also stuck on very strongly. To remove, I first tried heating with a hair dryer, but it did nothing. As I've never removed these before, I wanted to see if they are notched internally or anything odd like that. So, I hacksawed off the plastic end and there was nothing unusual inside - just plain tubing. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCCj_aYpQyZmX2xl-5-AiSBwub_cMWaN5SX8mQDhjFBs4Qsw-mcGB6HgRGMtV4m68v-MzaQ9OEwv6P032f301OwGo9ygJ4TIPEaJhgviMBQ-Lcmw7T50OPulJi_w7SBBRb7-dkTapdnQ/s2048/PXL_20210409_160009717.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1550" data-original-width="2048" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCCj_aYpQyZmX2xl-5-AiSBwub_cMWaN5SX8mQDhjFBs4Qsw-mcGB6HgRGMtV4m68v-MzaQ9OEwv6P032f301OwGo9ygJ4TIPEaJhgviMBQ-Lcmw7T50OPulJi_w7SBBRb7-dkTapdnQ/w400-h303/PXL_20210409_160009717.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Which means that the grips are merely glued on. I was going to use a knife to cut them off, when I "found" in my tool bag a long forgotten sharpened screwdriver. I can't remember why I made this exactly, but it's basically a chisel, made from a screwdriver. Using a mallet for control, I cut gently:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNhyphenhyphenutHvtsv_lwaWQPiK2LgTMchyOoRHo0eDA1itXMO89Ric_tT6-4pOuWqqtbCsZH_ulX7OZdHMuMU6nLJyS8J5kE-XD8CJ5WNAPjmLicU8ME7fN5XPIVT5U5fYem1AadLtRPvP57BI/s2048/PXL_20210409_160509955.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1694" data-original-width="2048" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNhyphenhyphenutHvtsv_lwaWQPiK2LgTMchyOoRHo0eDA1itXMO89Ric_tT6-4pOuWqqtbCsZH_ulX7OZdHMuMU6nLJyS8J5kE-XD8CJ5WNAPjmLicU8ME7fN5XPIVT5U5fYem1AadLtRPvP57BI/w400-h331/PXL_20210409_160509955.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>You don't have to cut much further than in the photo above, but for fun, I did:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7hmTPLZLdNYt4vDcX-rjAT_Bg8WDVa2pgaNHqMYxbJ290vmnla8atXSPUvYKLsHgQFVeQldMTs0E1e6jpAiZLkOtIV2YV-gLXiIxopDBHGyrzaiFMdwhpI2HbxqVdONiK4OTuf1O9LqU/s2048/PXL_20210409_160641577.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1798" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7hmTPLZLdNYt4vDcX-rjAT_Bg8WDVa2pgaNHqMYxbJ290vmnla8atXSPUvYKLsHgQFVeQldMTs0E1e6jpAiZLkOtIV2YV-gLXiIxopDBHGyrzaiFMdwhpI2HbxqVdONiK4OTuf1O9LqU/w351-h400/PXL_20210409_160641577.jpg" width="351" /></a></div><p>They twist off really easily now of course! So, what will I be replacing them with? There is an issue in that there's not much space before you reach the bend on these handlebars. Which means that you cannot really have standard 130mm hand grips with the original brake levers. Although, the yukky plastic grips are 100mm in length, that's end to end. Measured internally, they cover only 90mm of of the bar! Luckily, there are are relatively cheap and good quality BMX racing style grips that are 100mm overall with twin lock-on clamps:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh54fDwQubA0fu1MPmzfpKBM74_6nyvcGRYV5d-rQpHLSingMzHMlyCzASQeDoA7Saz3GX6UuJWnop9oy0w713QGo6XgXWaIBUhsZJQOmZWFRXAlWsFGbh1nnigi-0wYDE61rZmx9w__IA/s2218/PXL_20210413_175458766.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2218" data-original-width="1052" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh54fDwQubA0fu1MPmzfpKBM74_6nyvcGRYV5d-rQpHLSingMzHMlyCzASQeDoA7Saz3GX6UuJWnop9oy0w713QGo6XgXWaIBUhsZJQOmZWFRXAlWsFGbh1nnigi-0wYDE61rZmx9w__IA/w190-h400/PXL_20210413_175458766.jpg" width="190" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRPMwynJ3ey8tXbxEv-pbh3AfCGOS14mqP0N8FiLWylCvCToynYfbgjHI2AsHwO7SbHOMCjK7t017iVxmPeVW8UZoLpMCQWIvqis9vKqoliTBgfiUJCd10yGTkf6hmKe-te_guHm_9rI4/s1645/PXL_20210414_185219272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1250" data-original-width="1645" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRPMwynJ3ey8tXbxEv-pbh3AfCGOS14mqP0N8FiLWylCvCToynYfbgjHI2AsHwO7SbHOMCjK7t017iVxmPeVW8UZoLpMCQWIvqis9vKqoliTBgfiUJCd10yGTkf6hmKe-te_guHm_9rI4/w400-h304/PXL_20210414_185219272.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I chose these from Spank called the Spoon Grom. The anodised green clamps match reasonably well with the bike frame. They are way more comfortable than the originals, will function fine with these brake levers and should look smart too. <div><br /></div><div>Since the above photos, I've removed whatever rust I could, serviced the brake calipers, cables, and levers, and all chrome parts have been polished. The bike is pretty much ready to rebuild. I'm just waiting for the mudguards and chainguard to come back from the powder coaters. I also want to change the chain, add saddlebag loops to the saddle for a traditional saddle bag, and make a cover plate for the Sturmey Archer trigger shifter to show gear positions. </div>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-65811234448040235372021-04-05T17:28:00.002-07:002021-04-07T12:13:29.480-07:00Fitting Shimano Di2 Electronic Ultegra gears to a Lynskey Titanium frame<p> At the opposite extreme to a 1978 Raleigh shopper, is this swanky thang from Tennessee:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0VKyU4bMHiOtxNoXywO7QOlTTcCJ4qOXA6DR2cci3hOGilj2ZTiXplh3dPDh-zCmh2MkkTe_rLGQWk7XmAscKAOr1fPJBSlIsC6KeXTZ9bnF1oHIWxVI56GCDcse9thd1-blzy1-32pw/s2048/PXL_20210329_162952982.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1533" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0VKyU4bMHiOtxNoXywO7QOlTTcCJ4qOXA6DR2cci3hOGilj2ZTiXplh3dPDh-zCmh2MkkTe_rLGQWk7XmAscKAOr1fPJBSlIsC6KeXTZ9bnF1oHIWxVI56GCDcse9thd1-blzy1-32pw/w400-h300/PXL_20210329_162952982.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>It's a Lynskey R300 road bike, to which I'm going to fit Shimano Di2 Ultegra (6870, so an older version of the groupset, but it's still totally brilliant!). Now, the challenge is that at each bulkhead in the frame, the passage holes are smaller than the tubing. That means, there's a lip around each junction, which makes it awkward to thread anything through. The photo below of the bottom bracket may show this better than my explanation:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfTBIxUkBx8zOlvZsXmazF4WVdjmiK01EDcuhyiw4RKkUdc8I4gD6DUHqBtkUnDL6UcDVUAj7K3DLTVJ5s1U7Rb2Ky4IhY5Ow3LJnFnzbGEncnZ4ZIPNpS5-CTPk2469MEr2scSkL50ow/s1886/PXL_20210405_121106965.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1886" data-original-width="1774" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfTBIxUkBx8zOlvZsXmazF4WVdjmiK01EDcuhyiw4RKkUdc8I4gD6DUHqBtkUnDL6UcDVUAj7K3DLTVJ5s1U7Rb2Ky4IhY5Ow3LJnFnzbGEncnZ4ZIPNpS5-CTPk2469MEr2scSkL50ow/w376-h400/PXL_20210405_121106965.jpg" width="376" /></a></div><p>There are 6mm exit holes, but these are ok to work with, and standard for Shimano grommets. Here's the one in the head tube (and yes, Lynskey did confirm that the electronic wire (connecting Junction boxes A to B) is intended to go in from this hole around the steerer and into the down tube:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39fO1zXXuombodIFDsL0nAdn8wuqIoJ4glxUnu6hyMtnGYQjmF82MS36hcsygr1IdoBXZpdMja_APjV3C95wjhz_QFrWc5XhQUIWMnseaBtYhVBnQ_Yv-kKemPQTJV7YErGknq8s_8SM/s1825/PXL_20210405_124425276.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1825" data-original-width="1487" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh39fO1zXXuombodIFDsL0nAdn8wuqIoJ4glxUnu6hyMtnGYQjmF82MS36hcsygr1IdoBXZpdMja_APjV3C95wjhz_QFrWc5XhQUIWMnseaBtYhVBnQ_Yv-kKemPQTJV7YErGknq8s_8SM/w326-h400/PXL_20210405_124425276.jpg" width="326" /></a></div><br /><p>And here's the hole on the chainstay, which I will be wiring up first:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjb5zEmkYi_BQ-MlzFB2LdiAnw_cZglzTCE0INuGkqxusfxVAMYAwvwA0loWa3e-m6ySQ1lCMKfnL3ePi1ewuVzXpsdgj6WMygc-pPeOpQsFjLZ-Z_cVDkMSCb9C5vOyXR_0RJokqyUW8/s2048/PXL_20210405_120545213.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1625" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjb5zEmkYi_BQ-MlzFB2LdiAnw_cZglzTCE0INuGkqxusfxVAMYAwvwA0loWa3e-m6ySQ1lCMKfnL3ePi1ewuVzXpsdgj6WMygc-pPeOpQsFjLZ-Z_cVDkMSCb9C5vOyXR_0RJokqyUW8/w318-h400/PXL_20210405_120545213.jpg" width="318" /></a></div><p>My "threading" wire of choice is an old gear cable, also shown in the photo above. I like using this, as it can be taped easily to the electronic wire plug and still fit in the 6mm hole and pass round tight corners. I'll show you how later. But, the first step is to get this gear cable into the chainstay, with the nipple at the cassette end. After thinking about it, I fashioned a hooky type tool out of wire:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibWJDA4Yp48vhE8JXqqTGmiQgIT2SgK4QcN9ruTkTjLhG7J0_sZHA4M2mSA2KaqQXpUo_4Pg1H5l05JJEZ6m0BRquj_PG6b81UG-MnVxGtxLJ_OushmeBfrlDlyR3v9Ws3rgBUUyo4lF4/s2048/PXL_20210405_121552180.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="2048" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibWJDA4Yp48vhE8JXqqTGmiQgIT2SgK4QcN9ruTkTjLhG7J0_sZHA4M2mSA2KaqQXpUo_4Pg1H5l05JJEZ6m0BRquj_PG6b81UG-MnVxGtxLJ_OushmeBfrlDlyR3v9Ws3rgBUUyo4lF4/w400-h224/PXL_20210405_121552180.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>One end is a shepherd's crook, the other is a simple L hook and the middle is a loop. So, I ended up using this tool quite a lot today! First job then is to use the shepherd's crook to lift out through the chainstay hole the non-nipple end of a gear cable, inserted into the bottom bracket, like this:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFyijROs6wKjhgfcms6JzcknSKXUP2V8F1YsuRggxOF508kLwej9b6TWXXIo-bIx2DPKhEB7f7LHJV8dKRV4vvQSBVEwASJ1RRUd1JMuVTztgNI58-YYBAlnVoGyehj-96mEKpWOl41FQ/s1857/PXL_20210405_122123673%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1857" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFyijROs6wKjhgfcms6JzcknSKXUP2V8F1YsuRggxOF508kLwej9b6TWXXIo-bIx2DPKhEB7f7LHJV8dKRV4vvQSBVEwASJ1RRUd1JMuVTztgNI58-YYBAlnVoGyehj-96mEKpWOl41FQ/w345-h400/PXL_20210405_122123673%257E2.jpg" width="345" /></a></div><p>Eagle-eyed readers will see that I snipped off the very end of the sherpherd's crook, to make it easier to pull out of the 6mm hole. Basically, it's like fishing - poke the gear cable with one hand, try to hook it out with the left. It's relatively easy because you can feel the gear cable touch the hook and you can sometimes see it through the hole too. Once that was done, attach the nipple end of another gear cable to the nipple end of this cable. Using masking tape, wrap them up: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYHrCNuaFhKOrVVQaGnr_oEHTVWNxh6nIphXqwNLiJhdYR8WrTYuMSnbGs_O9wRt5XyUUDwSncSm2Mnv4_15ET5dWxxOyl2L9yWOXFJPlfdDuGLqjKOstRbO6Q5o7d36bn_KJ9gk_Q14/s2048/PXL_20210405_122354012.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1352" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYHrCNuaFhKOrVVQaGnr_oEHTVWNxh6nIphXqwNLiJhdYR8WrTYuMSnbGs_O9wRt5XyUUDwSncSm2Mnv4_15ET5dWxxOyl2L9yWOXFJPlfdDuGLqjKOstRbO6Q5o7d36bn_KJ9gk_Q14/w264-h400/PXL_20210405_122354012.jpg" width="264" /></a></div><br /><p>And pull the nipple end through, to end up like this:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdFW8L7KAyyDR54ofoU3Vh_Jbf9BimhD3JKQ1QoiqHM3qyEXPn9Juw8Fvl79Atp0GBqQmHB4vkKFQ0PqqWKNPfo0bqTRCrSNjBHaRhgsL6V6mjk-qbijahkE_hJebLwGrBP6cpnj030s/s2048/PXL_20210405_122616238.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1480" data-original-width="2048" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdFW8L7KAyyDR54ofoU3Vh_Jbf9BimhD3JKQ1QoiqHM3qyEXPn9Juw8Fvl79Atp0GBqQmHB4vkKFQ0PqqWKNPfo0bqTRCrSNjBHaRhgsL6V6mjk-qbijahkE_hJebLwGrBP6cpnj030s/w400-h289/PXL_20210405_122616238.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Now we're cooking! This nipple end can then be taped to the electrical wire plug:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggQlRpDRXQcpB4xMaqT0xL8HjXJxLK3qmzM21GCcjPx5sWu99sQk0Ksk3qp265faFAMm2NzRQgxfCDUzPThoTFdJNuKALCHbEmgfXcR6UkgRVuZlog9s4_qo8hr2UsEBDmvxT2S1P8qtg/s979/PXL_20210405_122740094.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="949" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggQlRpDRXQcpB4xMaqT0xL8HjXJxLK3qmzM21GCcjPx5sWu99sQk0Ksk3qp265faFAMm2NzRQgxfCDUzPThoTFdJNuKALCHbEmgfXcR6UkgRVuZlog9s4_qo8hr2UsEBDmvxT2S1P8qtg/w388-h400/PXL_20210405_122740094.jpg" width="388" /></a></div><br /><p>To create a hinged affair that can fit in a 6mm hole and go around corners. It looks like this:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPYczYL2A3ikHAvc2k_10I4kgpx4yAYwT5oo2AFmXskCasIqP3hNVMJ2oCrU5tkDuI8roYZg3hDrDj-Ujvw3J37P_-6bM3cXg-QKv3N5P4gm24bnxg_zK4VRulDyUPQInluG6CraNaF8/s2048/PXL_20210405_122918152%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1422" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPYczYL2A3ikHAvc2k_10I4kgpx4yAYwT5oo2AFmXskCasIqP3hNVMJ2oCrU5tkDuI8roYZg3hDrDj-Ujvw3J37P_-6bM3cXg-QKv3N5P4gm24bnxg_zK4VRulDyUPQInluG6CraNaF8/w278-h400/PXL_20210405_122918152%257E2.jpg" width="278" /></a></div><br /><p>Which can then be carefully drawn into the chainstay and out of the bottom bracket:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9B0fgHKYYL0AS8IQy2qjXCuzwXIkZU1-q185lfmYTPQlKiOVynPdK1fNtFELEyOUshneu7tqZ_Wq5_8pbly3KYq7vnHK9-bqBv1VJkS8TGZQdAomC6vwXDpDjJVraHC63G7FLP69-AcA/s2048/PXL_20210405_123240545.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1786" data-original-width="2048" height="349" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9B0fgHKYYL0AS8IQy2qjXCuzwXIkZU1-q185lfmYTPQlKiOVynPdK1fNtFELEyOUshneu7tqZ_Wq5_8pbly3KYq7vnHK9-bqBv1VJkS8TGZQdAomC6vwXDpDjJVraHC63G7FLP69-AcA/w400-h349/PXL_20210405_123240545.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>In the photo above, the first electrical wire is installed. A similar technique is used for the head tube - down tube connection. Looking in under the head tube, you can see the gear cable inserted into the entry hole for the down tube:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6VZ2FanBRQDpnzPv4cBIh-kaQitboiRt8jD7chyphenhyphenkZ_lKi7zrS5bREy9LOT8e1yUqxajzsmwWl5j8Xn9JslxWgwA0_-WJwoUdgqJV8wgfYxbRyjXyxDdrawNMzQggIkcjcrNwSErBxYlc/s2048/PXL_20210405_125522847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1754" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6VZ2FanBRQDpnzPv4cBIh-kaQitboiRt8jD7chyphenhyphenkZ_lKi7zrS5bREy9LOT8e1yUqxajzsmwWl5j8Xn9JslxWgwA0_-WJwoUdgqJV8wgfYxbRyjXyxDdrawNMzQggIkcjcrNwSErBxYlc/w343-h400/PXL_20210405_125522847.jpg" width="343" /></a></div><p>The gear cable comes out of the BB to the junction box:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8ATEF2pKse0eVqTKF2hs3HzrkkhyAffqwGPJqRr-mnqcixaSCTQPalCrMrVwI5ka9JR-C2q9aYbeRoxjFNKf0i6xhp-BmQzqXZmP08OM__QrKNIzvZjECd4ol5FJo9TzgOx27DybVqY/s2048/PXL_20210405_125501625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1614" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8ATEF2pKse0eVqTKF2hs3HzrkkhyAffqwGPJqRr-mnqcixaSCTQPalCrMrVwI5ka9JR-C2q9aYbeRoxjFNKf0i6xhp-BmQzqXZmP08OM__QrKNIzvZjECd4ol5FJo9TzgOx27DybVqY/w315-h400/PXL_20210405_125501625.jpg" width="315" /></a></div><p>The wires going from the seatpost battery to the bottom bracket, and the front mech to the bottom bracket are much easier. And from here, it is quite fiddly to get all your electrical wires where you want them AND to insert the junction box into the down tube, leaving enough space for the bottom bracket itself to be installed. By the way, for this Lynskey recommends copper ease anti-seize and also to PTFE tape the threads on the bottom bracket bearing units. Certainly, I took my time, used lots of patience and avoided frustration by thinking carefully about every step before executing it. </p><p>It shifts like a dream and rides like a magic carpet! Here are some photos of it (I'll cut the steerer down later, after I've settled in on a riding position).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgkWfXTUfE5hMESgNmXdKnZVd9uXaRufXwX4Mo-UP4r7Y7A-YrvvdB6l8fO_e2hCggDNZTeOhwvUsqFAQnjqxJIn8ZAFEZXLTT3A-TUzNxgPaCZ8bBTwG1peCcDmzwi1dYNdrmedpo5U/s2048/PXL_20210406_124714857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2048" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgkWfXTUfE5hMESgNmXdKnZVd9uXaRufXwX4Mo-UP4r7Y7A-YrvvdB6l8fO_e2hCggDNZTeOhwvUsqFAQnjqxJIn8ZAFEZXLTT3A-TUzNxgPaCZ8bBTwG1peCcDmzwi1dYNdrmedpo5U/w400-h281/PXL_20210406_124714857.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0y0kQ2N82iQi8A1JpPA_PZGUyvhpOMkti4-FDbk9R2nrtV5sv-XSk2gRNvHJBKoc6DVZjRZtUjSLne4OnLGQQH0rct8HDS7m6cfSQ8t-WBuDVTrtrSyBWz6Vq9GSIv_da_uLIAlLNAQg/s2048/PXL_20210406_124756416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0y0kQ2N82iQi8A1JpPA_PZGUyvhpOMkti4-FDbk9R2nrtV5sv-XSk2gRNvHJBKoc6DVZjRZtUjSLne4OnLGQQH0rct8HDS7m6cfSQ8t-WBuDVTrtrSyBWz6Vq9GSIv_da_uLIAlLNAQg/w300-h400/PXL_20210406_124756416.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfrcOTgh3wlfQahQQQ3b12eU-yz-5X07TSfIQx1p7_sYVSjCNJzJIMk659UeBdqIT4gnh4OEzMgQsp0frQnlseTmgEXmm5wr9FoehalnNg6l3eNNVE8XOAuW6iY2HJ1pcSlzb9QtbZzs/s2048/PXL_20210406_124804759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2036" data-original-width="2048" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfrcOTgh3wlfQahQQQ3b12eU-yz-5X07TSfIQx1p7_sYVSjCNJzJIMk659UeBdqIT4gnh4OEzMgQsp0frQnlseTmgEXmm5wr9FoehalnNg6l3eNNVE8XOAuW6iY2HJ1pcSlzb9QtbZzs/w400-h398/PXL_20210406_124804759.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6UvPQptIhotHzV1Uv5hL47ZAhlAuxefE6SBLebwHcT0HHgUDv2nZeoHQlHzQlglJrbHRGaCAbmQx-4uHk-OP3h6hRDdPAjLySdSPNC_4xfNkCF3UQn1x3HpoJHbwmaRI9cwm_AXyydC4/s2048/PXL_20210406_124821772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1989" data-original-width="2048" height="389" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6UvPQptIhotHzV1Uv5hL47ZAhlAuxefE6SBLebwHcT0HHgUDv2nZeoHQlHzQlglJrbHRGaCAbmQx-4uHk-OP3h6hRDdPAjLySdSPNC_4xfNkCF3UQn1x3HpoJHbwmaRI9cwm_AXyydC4/w400-h389/PXL_20210406_124821772.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5erwBYmUK3JABplAXr98vSoTyTOrxu_syS5rc9tkSxozFXo8aXGZIS7AEAnFSy-zayBmPZGGPaj8YjpDkHPxU0XSJE2r2zKet0XnvhpmS4NhY-WgtJR-O2DMhAp1sdW-iD5k3bvqNZp4/s2048/PXL_20210406_124904453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1711" data-original-width="2048" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5erwBYmUK3JABplAXr98vSoTyTOrxu_syS5rc9tkSxozFXo8aXGZIS7AEAnFSy-zayBmPZGGPaj8YjpDkHPxU0XSJE2r2zKet0XnvhpmS4NhY-WgtJR-O2DMhAp1sdW-iD5k3bvqNZp4/w400-h334/PXL_20210406_124904453.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-63731172857435770632021-04-01T17:58:00.005-07:002021-04-13T15:58:57.072-07:00Chuck's Tech Opinion: How to decide what to keep and what to change on a Raleigh Twenty, and Pedals!<p>As you work on a Twenty, you start to get a feel of the engineering. I find it useful to categorise: some parts are really well thought out and function well, others are merely adequate for their job and there's another category of redundant, useless, or poorly designed stuff. Then layered over that, some parts have elegance, possibly even beauty, while others are downright ugly. Add yet a further layer, namely weight, and a recipe emerges as to how to go about deciding what to keep and what to change. </p><p>Take the pedals. In the photo below (starting top left and going anti-clockwise): originals off a BSA 20, modern MTB style polymer flatties (BBB brand) and a generic polymer trap-type pedal:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuWUQKcEioZmL67a-FH90hTF1pyIvzio8yPRGKij1lBD30Y9OtVylWI2ItvWJ4WRW9MTYy-3KaIMcWZ4IdKqML5g5tC2Z3JIH6JtKcbEMWP9LBX0_XRpqz1pX16xdTNB9jc8XEz30ixM/s2048/PXL_20210401_121829342.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1686" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuWUQKcEioZmL67a-FH90hTF1pyIvzio8yPRGKij1lBD30Y9OtVylWI2ItvWJ4WRW9MTYy-3KaIMcWZ4IdKqML5g5tC2Z3JIH6JtKcbEMWP9LBX0_XRpqz1pX16xdTNB9jc8XEz30ixM/w329-h400/PXL_20210401_121829342.jpg" width="329" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Both the modern pedals have reflectors, today a legal requirement for safety, whereas the R20 pedals do not. Now, this R20 pedal has a certain elegance, it's true, but it's also narrow. Uncomfortable over a length of time, especially in soft soled shoes, as your feet curl over it. The weights add another factor:</p><p>
</p><table>
<tbody><tr>
<td><u><b>Pedal type</b></u></td>
<td><u><b>g per pair</b></u></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>R20</td>
<td>651</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>MTB Flatties</td>
<td>336</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Polymer Cage </td>
<td>286</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table><div><br /></div>I think it's remarkable that the old R20 pedals weigh so much, nearly 1.5lb! I discarded the polymer cage, for two reasons: the bearings on one were notchy and I didn't like the style for this bike. I thought it would be funky to have the MTB flatties. Apart from the beautiful wide platform they provide, the reflectors for safety and the weight saving (a stonking 315g), they are also shorter (12.1 cm v 11.0 cm from crank to pedal tip) and thinner, both of which reduce the chance of a pedal touching the road in a corner. So, my choice is made to switch to the MTB Flatties. <div><br /></div><div>That all sounds great, but then I tried fitting the MTB Flatties and to my surprise while the diameters were comparable (9/16"), the threading was different! I wondered whether the cranks had some old English threading, but that seems like an odd explanation, because I've managed to get modern pedals on a R20 before and know that others have too. More likely, perhaps the threading tooling that Raleigh used was slightly different to modern standard. It could be just some R20s that were like this. I tried a few pedals and I found that most of them were too tight, but one or two modern pedals went in ok, but only on one crank. Whatever the reason, after playing about a bit with modern pedals, I now feel that for this project, I will stick with the original pedals. They are a basic, but serviceable design. The end cap prises off carefully with a thin screwdriver. Underneath, two spring clips and a washer to remove:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpnFOF8MdKnG3EHF1IOGJZEpHCkXjc9F1jq2bBlseyTi0hhyodi7TXybw_t4kxHLSKuONYaokxfPj5x2BUgy_hB9ePKuy6ES6sTzYI_x11U_ilZTrOPVZ9QJqzOmOL-sJfkOzbL68qBk/s2048/PXL_20210413_144923308.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1263" data-original-width="2048" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpnFOF8MdKnG3EHF1IOGJZEpHCkXjc9F1jq2bBlseyTi0hhyodi7TXybw_t4kxHLSKuONYaokxfPj5x2BUgy_hB9ePKuy6ES6sTzYI_x11U_ilZTrOPVZ9QJqzOmOL-sJfkOzbL68qBk/w400-h246/PXL_20210413_144923308.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>There are no BBs just a plain bearing. The axle at the top simply slides into what looks like a tapered sleeve in the pedal, then the washer with flats is added and the two spring clips to hold it all down. This one was gummed up and a quick clean and regrease worked wonders. They spin super smoothly now. At least they are hardly worn and have plenty of service to give. They'll clean up ok and add to the retro look. <div><div><br /></div><div>Now consider the light bracket:</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO3EW83l0Zxbdp2E9QJ4lfSMgRIU2L5cr_OmCzZme7EBMHHdzQvpZ5IDV92UqvwOfAaEVin1dOZw1xA-S61OtrldpeNVkWo-Agb3282nletvO9SipkII0ylbZxIpUrl66Vjunp6Gvf_a8/s2048/PXL_20210401_224635690.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1352" data-original-width="2048" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO3EW83l0Zxbdp2E9QJ4lfSMgRIU2L5cr_OmCzZme7EBMHHdzQvpZ5IDV92UqvwOfAaEVin1dOZw1xA-S61OtrldpeNVkWo-Agb3282nletvO9SipkII0ylbZxIpUrl66Vjunp6Gvf_a8/w400-h264/PXL_20210401_224635690.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />What an ugly lump that is, and given modern lights, it's redundant too. It serves a purpose in the headset, that is to increase stack height by a few mm in order to prevent the top lock nut from bottoming out. But that function can be easily achieved with a small standard spacer. How much does this monstrosity weigh? 77g! That's about the weight of SEVEN AAA batteries! Wowsers. Guess where that's going? Yes, in the recycling bin. NB, you have to remove the front brake caliper to get the stem out in order to lift this off the headset (see my post a few days ago on that wire loop thingy that restricts the movement of the stem vertically).</div><div><br /></div><div>Note that by just by changing pedals and ditching the light bracket, you could save nearly 400g. Astonishing. </div><div><br /></div><div>You can repeat this thought process for every other item on the R20, using the factors I suggested at the top of this post (I'm not considering maintenance items, such as brake pads, tyres, BBs, chain and cables):</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Sturmey Archer hubs (both the front one and the rear epicyclic AW gear unit): </b></div><div>Elegant, well thought out, very functional, design kudos, unique, a bit heavy, but worth it! Pretty when clean and polished! I would keep these in nearly every case, unless there was a radically different vision for a particular build. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Chainset:</b> </div><div>They are not all the same. Some patterns are indeed beautiful, others look more functional, but they have some eye appeal, I like the stamped "Nottingham Knight". They function well if you can deal with cotter pins and can live with the heavy chromed steel.</div><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Bottom bracket:</b></div><div>It's perfectly functional, and isn't heavy, so in my view, this comes down to condition, and how important it is for you to change the chainset/eliminate cotter pins. The axle is a solid thing, and very rarely needs replacement. So, a good service with new BBs is usually all that's needed if you stick with cottered cranks. However, if you want to open up the world of square taper chainsets, then I believe that the simplest and best option is to find a square taper axle that fits and retain the same bottom bracket cups and 1/4" BBs. If that's not possible, then face the shell to 73mm or even 68mm (the width of my BSA 20 shell is 77mm as best as I could measure it), and rethread to standard 24 tpi. Some say that you should fill the threads with with a suitable molten metal before re-threading, but I've also read that many people have had success just rethreading directly, but slightly deeper than the original threads. Clearly a specialist's job. Failing any of those, then a problem solver may be a new threadless (friction fitting) unit. </div></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Saddle:</b></div><div>Really ugly, uncomfortable for me, and enormously heavy! It's gotta go. </div><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Seatpost:</b></div><div>Ugly, too short for many people, and very heavy, especially being steel with the steel clamp. Easy swap out to a modern one 28.6 usually. It's gotta go. </div></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Chrome steel Handlebars and Stem</b></div><div>Function ok, and have a certain elegance. However, they are really rather heavy and often this is were customisation and your personal vision take over. A quill stem, with alloy riser bars, or bullhorns, etc. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Hand grips:</b></div><div>Yeuk! Hard ugly plastic and short. The only positive thing I can say about them is that they are hard wearing. But, I really think they have to go in just about any project (save for a restoration to original spec). </div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Chrome steel rims:</b></div><div>Work ok, but do not brake as well as alloys, especially in the wet. Look nice when clean and polished up. Heavy! My front wheel without nuts, rim tapes, or tyres weighs 940g. With rim tapes, tyres and nuts it weighs 1547g. Go or stay? It's really one of preference and also considering the condition of the steel rims that you have, the hassle of doing a rim swap, or finding/building another wheel that fits and also brakes that work with them. On the other hand, if you're not accelerating and braking a lot then, a heavy wheel provides a nice flywheel effect for steady riding - which is what I tend to do on a Twenty. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Nylon bushing top part of the headset: </b></div><div>Functions just about adequately, especially if you get a chance to clean it and lube the surface that touches the steerer, and adjust the headset properly. Once the light bracket is off, there's not much in the weight. So this one is a matter of preference again. This photo is of my current project, rust cleaned off and polished. I've kept the Nylon bushing, but ditched the light bracket (hence the black spacer):</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKOB2bDqN7tWUKT68gj2gtYJU5G1wnXAqNGD6G_9CZYs4zM1QJp1nGDPnqYGGzm0Et2kA-8MfuuaOkRirDxDO3YLs8NyYa41bGxgVPVA_xT2JW_ICNUjaaKRJeTVWtoil_ipY2JrUPkWU/s2048/PXL_20210402_174550389.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1411" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKOB2bDqN7tWUKT68gj2gtYJU5G1wnXAqNGD6G_9CZYs4zM1QJp1nGDPnqYGGzm0Et2kA-8MfuuaOkRirDxDO3YLs8NyYa41bGxgVPVA_xT2JW_ICNUjaaKRJeTVWtoil_ipY2JrUPkWU/w275-h400/PXL_20210402_174550389.jpg" width="275" /></a></div><br /><div>Another approach is to remove the Nylon bushing and install the top half of a 1" threadless headset. When I do that again in the future, I'll be sure to take enough photos and post them on this blog. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Frame:</b> </div><div>It wouldn't be a Twenty without one! It's a classic, has got to stay.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Forks:</b></div><div>They are designed to fit the cone flanges of the Raleigh Sturmey Archer front hub and they work well enough. A bit heavy. I think this one is mainly down to whether you keep that front hub or not. Also whether you want to do something funky, like BMX forks for 451 or 406 wheels or suspension forks. In which case, you can also change the whole headset. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Paintwork:</b></div><div>What condition is it in, and do you like it? Will it clean up nicely (after a wash, T-Cut and car polish)? Simple as that. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Clamps and Locking levers on steerer and seat tube:</b></div><div>These function adequately if well-maintained and positioned properly (evenly over their respective tubing slots). They add a bit of weight, but also provide easy quick adjustment. Also, if you are fitting a quill stem, the front clamp becomes unnecessary and can go (or stay!). So it's really up to you. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Brake caliper units:</b></div><div>Can function adequately if you take the time to set them up well, and they polish up ok too. Remove rust with WD40 and 0000 steel wool, chrome polish, lubricate and fix and adjust them properly. Use fresh cables. In many instances, I've changed only the inner wires, as the outer cables were fine. If the ends of the outer cables are kinked, you can snip off 5-10mm cleanly and that will improve the performance quite a bit. Modern alloy units would be an improvement and weigh less, but I think this one is really a matter of preference. Here's a front caliper, with rust cleaned off one arm, but not yet the other one:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA4gJaZfY9mShD7gxtVQ8-sgHzFHnGt98JrSq0B8_5hArVFCyqndhvZSaw0x4tPF5AHxp4_p6KbEiqMXpCznWmyYWJQ9442XP6WhW3F4eOlMUwgHtG7awnElwgB9kAZcwiJkl4pZDZdqA/s2048/PXL_20210402_154646235.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1685" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA4gJaZfY9mShD7gxtVQ8-sgHzFHnGt98JrSq0B8_5hArVFCyqndhvZSaw0x4tPF5AHxp4_p6KbEiqMXpCznWmyYWJQ9442XP6WhW3F4eOlMUwgHtG7awnElwgB9kAZcwiJkl4pZDZdqA/w329-h400/PXL_20210402_154646235.jpg" width="329" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Brake levers:</b></div><div>In my view they function adequately, and being steel are better than plastic levers! But there are lighter and better modern alternatives. So, it's a matter of preference for your particular build I think. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Mudguards (Fenders):</b></div><div>Functional, but do not have the break-off arms for safety as modern ones do and are relatively heavy. Must mount them properly and securely, or those beefy mounting arms could foul a wheel and cause a bad accident. I'm powder coating mine on this build. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Chainguard:</b></div><div>Serves a function (keeping your trouser leg clean!) and has a certain appearance. Don't weigh a great deal, but grams are grams. It's up to you! I'm powder coating mine on this build. </div><div><br /></div><div>As I've said before, the Raleigh Twenty is like a blank canvas to a bike builder! The Raleigh bronze green BSA 20 that I'm working on at the moment is going to retain most of its original components, but with modern contact points (pedals, saddle/seatpost and hand grips). The next one may be a light weight with funky bars and alloy rims, but I haven't clearly figured out my direction on that one at this time. </div><div><br /></div><div>Go with your heart and desire, enjoy the process, and all will be ok. Be creative, be artistic! </div></div>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-33796719105016528002021-03-31T16:50:00.006-07:002021-03-31T17:16:32.187-07:00Chuck's Tech Opinion: Shimano Uniglide cassettes, replacing cogs/sprockets<p>Just before Shimano came up with the Hyperglide (HG) cassette system that we know and love today, it introduced the Uniglide (UG) arrangement. It was an 1980s effort to provide not only a cassette system, but also teeth features to improve shifting (especially for the indexing 'click' that is pretty much standard now). I happen to have such a cassette in 6 speed - they were produced in 5, 6, 7 and 8 speed. Generally, UG cassettes are rare these days, while screw-on freewheel types remain relatively abundant. This post is about cleaning and re-jigging my Uniglide cassette, currently 13-14-15-17-19-21T, and my thoughts about it. I want to dismantle, clean and swap out one of the cogs to allow me to put in a bigger 24T. Photo before I started work:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEhZSApX5DPfk6xPSPMQwl20vthWa7_W7uBaZuqjDVvmBp7IRrj5lIU2uKbrkkL2nWXecq0RIPNK7-X0KeHG0pk-WoF0ADAPv_lM1AP6qb9wPLHk5t7zJimqjuqCopCKJKIS4f5eToTk/s2048/PXL_20210330_173124417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1259" data-original-width="2048" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEhZSApX5DPfk6xPSPMQwl20vthWa7_W7uBaZuqjDVvmBp7IRrj5lIU2uKbrkkL2nWXecq0RIPNK7-X0KeHG0pk-WoF0ADAPv_lM1AP6qb9wPLHk5t7zJimqjuqCopCKJKIS4f5eToTk/w400-h246/PXL_20210330_173124417.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Yes, it's dirty, and the grime is stuck hard! If you've never seen a Uniglide cassette before, then it could be confusing. It has neither Hyperglide's splined lockring nor the spline socket that screw-on freewheel types have. It does have a freehub body, much like the modern Hyperglide, but all the splines are the same width. Instead of the HG lockring, the topmost cog is screwed down on to the upper part of the freehub body, which is partially threaded, to hold everything together. The 24T cog that I want to add is the black one in the photo. To dismantle, you use 2 chain whips to hold the wider cog, while unscrewing the topmost cog (13T):</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJINY8fcaDE37euRokwXP1iBOGuPtIiUreENSuAkbyw9EcZZLXMtjqnP_vlyxd5-ZSJfy-G_scrfO9PGGKBCT6_nHdsw8atV4wle8YFoHavKPoadMqDcx_Uy_icqyqJuRHy2M7NwHs2hI/s2048/PXL_20210330_173858152.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1899" data-original-width="2048" height="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJINY8fcaDE37euRokwXP1iBOGuPtIiUreENSuAkbyw9EcZZLXMtjqnP_vlyxd5-ZSJfy-G_scrfO9PGGKBCT6_nHdsw8atV4wle8YFoHavKPoadMqDcx_Uy_icqyqJuRHy2M7NwHs2hI/w400-h371/PXL_20210330_173858152.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Thankfully it unscrewed fairly easily. Turned over, you can see the cutouts for weight reduction and the three small bolts that hold the unit together. The top locking cog (13T) has an inbuilt spacer and is threaded on its inside. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggjEgS50mJBFDY8dpqX-eJ28K0JD726S7lAZ4C454eFgpzGwnYyFAcu0rmA4PT4yzDZaRJCjFvudBiTaPEFqvGLN0tX1OTo1i8nN2fmvyRj93MSrD0ArSRoLJCaZ3oxL8WJGnGJmYkr6I/s2048/PXL_20210330_174123268.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2035" data-original-width="2048" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggjEgS50mJBFDY8dpqX-eJ28K0JD726S7lAZ4C454eFgpzGwnYyFAcu0rmA4PT4yzDZaRJCjFvudBiTaPEFqvGLN0tX1OTo1i8nN2fmvyRj93MSrD0ArSRoLJCaZ3oxL8WJGnGJmYkr6I/w400-h398/PXL_20210330_174123268.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>View from the other side, there is a thin washer under the top locking cog (13T), and you can see the bolts engaged in the three small threaded holes in cog 14T:<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtm3oJSgwu29QgUBh_y1yQ4MGuVuS00o0gKDAZXyR1pLJELTu3AefR14mlcWj_gTCEprz4gxzgpoJUdmlB9SomKxMd4Vbl9CKf3chDE16VTAFC7HL_BZ8glTPbifRUcftNvgrYr6T2hU/s2048/PXL_20210330_174140523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtm3oJSgwu29QgUBh_y1yQ4MGuVuS00o0gKDAZXyR1pLJELTu3AefR14mlcWj_gTCEprz4gxzgpoJUdmlB9SomKxMd4Vbl9CKf3chDE16VTAFC7HL_BZ8glTPbifRUcftNvgrYr6T2hU/w383-h400/PXL_20210330_174140523.jpg" width="383" /></a></div><br /><p>The bolts need to come out. The bolts have a smooth shaft and are threaded at their tip. They screw only into the matching threaded holes in the 14T cog: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgA2VEvTHxk2z1J1WSvZoDItiNSCCzNyyQ1F1VLOkPXprifdV-li_azkmdGlJ0rFtGrczNkG2shBlLMIip8AvHCSMpKpOuKGTvS7Y7OMDmIl2zHW7ElfvEIQCnddbgPYrizpzhluTILvY/s2048/PXL_20210330_174348479.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1814" data-original-width="2048" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgA2VEvTHxk2z1J1WSvZoDItiNSCCzNyyQ1F1VLOkPXprifdV-li_azkmdGlJ0rFtGrczNkG2shBlLMIip8AvHCSMpKpOuKGTvS7Y7OMDmIl2zHW7ElfvEIQCnddbgPYrizpzhluTILvY/w400-h354/PXL_20210330_174348479.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Taking off the 14T cog, there are identical plastic spacers between the remaining cogs:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRx8q7b9dfGbB7Rzk6NhAiD8dpFisFFAZYaSaTtddxzbGxQcotmvoKENlTFNsdJAie7FyIuYLQEu7hqoCYsoT8YEGBzpATRth26Xqci9fqG14I9vGeaRjO5_pxmJpXcom9KSOQvqtt6to/s2048/PXL_20210330_174401959.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1936" data-original-width="2048" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRx8q7b9dfGbB7Rzk6NhAiD8dpFisFFAZYaSaTtddxzbGxQcotmvoKENlTFNsdJAie7FyIuYLQEu7hqoCYsoT8YEGBzpATRth26Xqci9fqG14I9vGeaRjO5_pxmJpXcom9KSOQvqtt6to/w400-h378/PXL_20210330_174401959.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>I cleaned up the parts and started to refit. In this photo you can see the threading on the upper part of the freehub body. Apparently, it's possible to change that body for a HG one, but why bother when this seems little worn and is functioning beautifully. Also, I think the threading on Dura Ace is different - presumably an attempt to keep it "exclusive" and apart from the mass market! I've placed the new 24T on first, then a plastic spacer:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2rbpsmqOjYqVTw6wwmZIg1XtYscwolCQO24Uh-BWyHTIcMJXb9or5Uns5SW4dhT5lBp3amKmNX2fBMeWU0L19zpKs17SbJkfw-PjoM6H8L6w0u_anzSo_jx2nF1E5MthuhQPLdeg2x4/s2048/PXL_20210331_111331086.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1680" data-original-width="2048" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2rbpsmqOjYqVTw6wwmZIg1XtYscwolCQO24Uh-BWyHTIcMJXb9or5Uns5SW4dhT5lBp3amKmNX2fBMeWU0L19zpKs17SbJkfw-PjoM6H8L6w0u_anzSo_jx2nF1E5MthuhQPLdeg2x4/w400-h328/PXL_20210331_111331086.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Looking at the splines on 19T, note the absence of the wider notch and narrower notch. Also note the three holes for the bolts - these are present in everything, spacers, washer and cogs. I'm not going to use the bolts as their main purpose is to hold the cassette together for easy fitting. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6lJ-TMsBTRqshhaDu0WAlg721nAZcxc_tHWQTwZkjWGd8LbYNtg2HU91bubhNjtNNbSh-27wmnLXL2Kj8iDpME60vxDUYDaFTOp_LJ88RnIEit22M1nEhDaSEUzYexfLeiRDRcHj2VM/s2048/PXL_20210331_112648011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1676" data-original-width="2048" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6lJ-TMsBTRqshhaDu0WAlg721nAZcxc_tHWQTwZkjWGd8LbYNtg2HU91bubhNjtNNbSh-27wmnLXL2Kj8iDpME60vxDUYDaFTOp_LJ88RnIEit22M1nEhDaSEUzYexfLeiRDRcHj2VM/w400-h328/PXL_20210331_112648011.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>In the photo above, you can see two teeth features designed to improve shifting. Firstly, two opposing teeth on the 17T cog are shorter. These provide avenues for the chain to dismount as you shift. Secondly, you can just see the twist of all teeth. These features are the precursor of Hyperglide teeth shaping. Place cog, spacer, cog spacer, etc... until you reach the penultimate one, then the thin washer goes on:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4LMuLgcM5kQpLVcdpkthfjfjZICaY5cs8hOvfmL0yI8yvPhCUchz1zS5hrwBO3WCUrqpyEXxv8uR3EE5p_-eQenwbFLNXLkaZFOC7NdhVeZudhAwU541YlxHhdycmRv2TwukA9hx8-EI/s2048/PXL_20210331_114405516.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1869" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4LMuLgcM5kQpLVcdpkthfjfjZICaY5cs8hOvfmL0yI8yvPhCUchz1zS5hrwBO3WCUrqpyEXxv8uR3EE5p_-eQenwbFLNXLkaZFOC7NdhVeZudhAwU541YlxHhdycmRv2TwukA9hx8-EI/w365-h400/PXL_20210331_114405516.jpg" width="365" /></a></div><br /><p>Now you can clearly see the threading on the freehub body to take the last locking cog 13T. Put that last one on carefully by hand, to ensure threads are not crossed! Then tighten it with a chain whip, but it's not really necessary to strain yourself doing that, because the process of pedalling will tighten it. In fact, when I put it into top gear while riding, I felt the slight slip as it tightened into position. Here's a pic of the removed bolts and 14T cog, which I'll be putting away carefully in my bits box. Only some cogs had the shorter opposing teeth pairs:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGooReve27DG4Q16QRFeVS9F6lyTbt3dUXv1fTr41fIdXKQ7TiLRZYG73iJul-v5vgq5rIl5vTGnlU6JkrCbI5mbs8_g7a3g_vEme_4vXLQXO3bx_7DzLZ7q9Il_yQXP5AAkB1TLk-Duo/s1823/PXL_20210331_114815986.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1409" data-original-width="1823" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGooReve27DG4Q16QRFeVS9F6lyTbt3dUXv1fTr41fIdXKQ7TiLRZYG73iJul-v5vgq5rIl5vTGnlU6JkrCbI5mbs8_g7a3g_vEme_4vXLQXO3bx_7DzLZ7q9Il_yQXP5AAkB1TLk-Duo/w400-h309/PXL_20210331_114815986.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The finished cassette. Not so dirty now! Can you spot the shorter teeth in the picture below? Hint: there are none in the top locking cog (13T). Notice that the 24T cog has them, which means it's not really intended to be a last cog - contrast with 21T (see photo above) which is stamped 'Low' and doesn't have the shorter teeth. I don't think it really matters, and presumably, having the shorter teeth on the biggest cog will help switching from 24T to 21T. </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF1FUNelRuXN8DB9fsS-kO2banxfeu1pRQ31DtM04Mqa6rvwY_PDxqxfMKfmXmaG8OkxmNMRpgH6H608xyyGaKa1Q_8tyWt1FIaJk0XFLzD8lKOQKN8OzySnMdBzLh1qgLdrgn2h-F92U/s1982/PXL_20210331_121115188.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1878" data-original-width="1982" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF1FUNelRuXN8DB9fsS-kO2banxfeu1pRQ31DtM04Mqa6rvwY_PDxqxfMKfmXmaG8OkxmNMRpgH6H608xyyGaKa1Q_8tyWt1FIaJk0XFLzD8lKOQKN8OzySnMdBzLh1qgLdrgn2h-F92U/w400-h379/PXL_20210331_121115188.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Now a photo of the bike in which this wheel goes, my Dawes Impulse (see previous posts): </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FX1Sco-_aKjcRwGYak1Lg1X26nlXpkbfowUo8wDQfSTez36aHIpIblRrXX4OJKNO-U9ORc07yKYwsh-YKs3E03jlZ1XeUzYQC85_3buPFQBHQ0gCvRLTgdBEdB4LLWT7J8mb0r-PCiI/s2048/PXL_20210331_161909953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1775" data-original-width="2048" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FX1Sco-_aKjcRwGYak1Lg1X26nlXpkbfowUo8wDQfSTez36aHIpIblRrXX4OJKNO-U9ORc07yKYwsh-YKs3E03jlZ1XeUzYQC85_3buPFQBHQ0gCvRLTgdBEdB4LLWT7J8mb0r-PCiI/w400-h346/PXL_20210331_161909953.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>And a closeup of the cleaned cassette newly configured to: 13-15-17-19-21-24T, with the vintage super-cool Shimano 105 mech:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbDqPXMngGrqOVIxBdmRK5y2_EPslRF7O45o9s5T7EPh07JM9aqvM1bm5h_Lb_AiOBDk5b7SM6lsynNtDffYCE8BmgiLYaWLmFjjDrrENP2_8Flua1HSCKx-hEMMamDTd-5rnk46JXYNI/s2048/PXL_20210331_162151294.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1801" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbDqPXMngGrqOVIxBdmRK5y2_EPslRF7O45o9s5T7EPh07JM9aqvM1bm5h_Lb_AiOBDk5b7SM6lsynNtDffYCE8BmgiLYaWLmFjjDrrENP2_8Flua1HSCKx-hEMMamDTd-5rnk46JXYNI/w351-h400/PXL_20210331_162151294.jpg" width="351" /></a></div><br /><p>One thing you need to check for is that the chain is long enough to handle cross-chained big-big. Even if you're not supposed to use that gear, it is wise to ensure that the chain is long enough for it to be engaged otherwise you can break things. To my relief, it was long enough. </p><p><b>CHUCK'S TECH OPINION ON UNIGLIDE</b></p><p>I thoroughly enjoyed working on my Uniglide cassette, because the quality of manufacture is superb, and everything disassembles and fits well. It was easy to remove the bolts (using quality pliers). This is better than those annoying rivets in modern cassettes, but I can understand that rivets would be much cheaper than those three bolts when it comes to mass production. </p><p>Test riding was magic! It shifted positively, flawlessly, and the indexing was spot on. Definitely the crispest shifting bike with down tube levers that I've ever owned and I'm comparing here to both screw-on freewheels and even more modern 9 speed Hyperglide hubs. (Perhaps that's because the tolerances, both cog-spacing and lever-indexing, for 6 speed are more forgiving compared to the narrower 9 speed?). </p><p>Another great advantage is that the uniform spline widths allow you to invert each cog. Useful to maximise working life, as worn cogs may be simply turned around. While I like this and it resonates with today's re-use, up-cycle culture, it is not the ideal situation for the capitalist mass-producer who wants sales (think Apple iPhones and OS upgrades that render one's device slow). I think that is part of the reason why we have modern riveted cassettes and non-reversible cogs today. Also, I suspect that with different width spacers, you may use the same freehub body to build up a 5, 7 or 8 speed cassette, but I haven't tried it and would have to research the standards for that (i.e. spacer widths, cog thicknesses and overall hub body height). </p><p>In its time in the 1980s, Uniglide was top-end and a step-forward in smoothness of shifting and ease of indexation. I can appreciate why. Uniglide hubs are ultra-rare nowadays, so the information in this post is really for bike nuts, the sake of history, or those who accidentally come across one. Feel lucky if you do though because from what I've seen, a new old stock Uniglide cassette can sell for £60-£100!</p></div>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-59624345440721000002021-03-31T13:56:00.000-07:002021-03-31T13:56:05.850-07:00Raleigh Twenty: To powder coat or not?<p>When I got this bike, it was dirty and grimy looking. My first thought was to strip the paint and get it powder coated. However, after working on it for a while, I realised that the parts with the worst paintwork (chips and rust) were the mudguards (fenders) and the chain guard. These have been removed and sent off to my local powder coaters for prepping and application of a contrasting colour. In the meantime, I washed the frame, applied T Cut to the paintwork, and have been working on polishing up and servicing the components (see last few blog posts on the chainset, bottom bracket and wheels). Today, for the first time, I whacked a bit of regular car polish on the underside of the frame and hey presto:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrBx-GxxtpZv1DwgtPSQG_hOippiQ7ktZEAF9lZzst0OGBgJX1TJQl6rGSTYQgc6NVJn8hqI703cITDyY14hJTAbywC3GpGrfPGTBNGT-nE86u1dVmvMrNIZ-X_uwa6HmS_WkYditUsHI/s1522/PXL_20210331_165215370.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1374" data-original-width="1522" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrBx-GxxtpZv1DwgtPSQG_hOippiQ7ktZEAF9lZzst0OGBgJX1TJQl6rGSTYQgc6NVJn8hqI703cITDyY14hJTAbywC3GpGrfPGTBNGT-nE86u1dVmvMrNIZ-X_uwa6HmS_WkYditUsHI/w400-h361/PXL_20210331_165215370.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Not bad for paint that is 33y old, I think you'd agree! It vindicates my decision to not strip this frame. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiVbVqKnPvIRtPpjJx2GUAsgdaG_qq7iydR1_US2wefSUi45Zu-K1OqqkLle03lQ9z35l1ARzfIJpKPMY3sro_sP36nwisTpMZ2fgc4MP_R0Krw1TjMF85SDrljzkS6mzNvwvtRvXu0us/s2048/PXL_20210331_165055413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1411" data-original-width="2048" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiVbVqKnPvIRtPpjJx2GUAsgdaG_qq7iydR1_US2wefSUi45Zu-K1OqqkLle03lQ9z35l1ARzfIJpKPMY3sro_sP36nwisTpMZ2fgc4MP_R0Krw1TjMF85SDrljzkS6mzNvwvtRvXu0us/w400-h275/PXL_20210331_165055413.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><p>Now I'm keen to polish the rest of it, but there's a lot to do before that, such as removing rust from the brake calipers and levers, figuring out what I want for pedals and hand grips. In the photo, you can just see the 1970's cream plastic hand grip. Compared to modern bar grips, these are ugly, uncomfortable and undersized! </p><p><br /></p>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-41907514719028782822021-03-29T17:09:00.002-07:002021-03-30T01:53:05.354-07:00Raleigh Twenty: Front hub service, removing rust chrome wheels<p>The 46T 165mm crankset off the BSA 20 is utilitarian, but good looking, after the rust is removed and the chrome polished. I especially like the little "Nottingham Knight" stampings. Virtually unworn teeth:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgelY8TX96hveFuiVpoHKwrEe0SW1QFh02uSZc_nHjY9DRK-teFvyl020UOOZpone0eIWsMnJdqYiz1I0JXp-G9-we2Bzrlng_EZ4yF5c5AFGuikN9pNmn7LiA0VhgiaBENPPeZPbJ_938/s2048/PXL_20210329_145930439.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1648" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgelY8TX96hveFuiVpoHKwrEe0SW1QFh02uSZc_nHjY9DRK-teFvyl020UOOZpone0eIWsMnJdqYiz1I0JXp-G9-we2Bzrlng_EZ4yF5c5AFGuikN9pNmn7LiA0VhgiaBENPPeZPbJ_938/w323-h400/PXL_20210329_145930439.jpg" width="323" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>OK, it's cottered, but I'll make sure to assemble it with anti-seize. I tried removing some rust with Aluminium foil and water, and while it works, it can cause scratches, probably because solid particles can get dragged about under the metal foil. I prefer using 0000 wire wool with WD40. That removes rust quickly and minimises scratching. Here are some before and after shots:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifs450MYptOvZgyKA01b5URgsf5GF14PvMQhTliXgLVc5_zOIiL36rrKTYMtbQ6oljmRwqJt-AF-JtNIpgG6-nrkCovY7D6_cAeT2CesWeCLJuA15TIEzvQ1fYsmEAJeidHfTOyCf_HrU/s2614/PXL_20210327_182738702.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1203" data-original-width="2614" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifs450MYptOvZgyKA01b5URgsf5GF14PvMQhTliXgLVc5_zOIiL36rrKTYMtbQ6oljmRwqJt-AF-JtNIpgG6-nrkCovY7D6_cAeT2CesWeCLJuA15TIEzvQ1fYsmEAJeidHfTOyCf_HrU/w400-h184/PXL_20210327_182738702.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzevQTLDxwwTlbvMwdaAnxbIycaEscpmV_dvccy64ggbyUf52NDlhVaW-U7Pv-EEEsx3AcgIjfhS5Y8cFT1jNhB8_VB7RVL8zSOw0wD8ppDHArinYbt2-fNNbgRD_quhyESiRaed-DBg/s2782/PXL_20210327_183854904.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1131" data-original-width="2782" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzevQTLDxwwTlbvMwdaAnxbIycaEscpmV_dvccy64ggbyUf52NDlhVaW-U7Pv-EEEsx3AcgIjfhS5Y8cFT1jNhB8_VB7RVL8zSOw0wD8ppDHArinYbt2-fNNbgRD_quhyESiRaed-DBg/w400-h163/PXL_20210327_183854904.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>And another one:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGKczaH64wIGYUHZeiBU_YXsZY7kBGRYTyM2gUxMcF0zPFuMC7BBoTiRf7kEerfe90eftFTWOLJ_6T1fGXM9K6XV4wzWKLNVl6Dm9Ez-ibv_kR8cVIQNxHi4RdVw2KAXMoR7NyIyVySE/s1764/PXL_20210328_150130477.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1518" data-original-width="1764" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGKczaH64wIGYUHZeiBU_YXsZY7kBGRYTyM2gUxMcF0zPFuMC7BBoTiRf7kEerfe90eftFTWOLJ_6T1fGXM9K6XV4wzWKLNVl6Dm9Ez-ibv_kR8cVIQNxHi4RdVw2KAXMoR7NyIyVySE/w400-h344/PXL_20210328_150130477.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>In this one, the bottom part of the front hub has been cleaned, but not yet the top part. You can see the yucky grease solidified into varnish. Easily cleaned with WD40 and a small piece of green plastic scourer. This is probably the first time the hub has been opened since 1978! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUlk2N2iLIh5npu4JDvqfgK0u4hrBlRXZBhUgq2IOO7qNAZJBx0dRjKHOti3QFywfHCrN_wfN_DGM96PMBph67_g8Sx2UtT2yOfOrgaP9ziWlunQMBSM6-pI7ADoe9F0qvT7Fl6fYJQW8/s2048/PXL_20210328_150057035.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1909" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUlk2N2iLIh5npu4JDvqfgK0u4hrBlRXZBhUgq2IOO7qNAZJBx0dRjKHOti3QFywfHCrN_wfN_DGM96PMBph67_g8Sx2UtT2yOfOrgaP9ziWlunQMBSM6-pI7ADoe9F0qvT7Fl6fYJQW8/w373-h400/PXL_20210328_150057035.jpg" width="373" /></a></div><br /><p>Note also the 3 cross spoke pattern, but interestingly, the crossing spoke goes over the first, second AND third spokes, not under the third, as is often the case on larger wheels with 3 cross lacing. And here's the other side, all clean, ready for balls (10 BB each side of 3/16"):</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjACJBySXG1eurFXSoqW5cLC3wWKBCOYdIJ4KxRfgTdeOH-N1k6IR4CkY9froWLdWCpQQOUPJBqldvHuFWXQyLx2T7RwANxZM6pBm2PpyRFovKdixp2pLGQIKhkfmssXWEAFSamNBF7O7U/s2048/PXL_20210328_150112907.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2011" data-original-width="2048" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjACJBySXG1eurFXSoqW5cLC3wWKBCOYdIJ4KxRfgTdeOH-N1k6IR4CkY9froWLdWCpQQOUPJBqldvHuFWXQyLx2T7RwANxZM6pBm2PpyRFovKdixp2pLGQIKhkfmssXWEAFSamNBF7O7U/w400-h393/PXL_20210328_150112907.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Like the chainset, there's a lot of character in these late 70s Raleigh Sturmey Archer front hubs. They are actually very well thought out in my opinion, as I'll describe further below. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7EpnRaEXjtkGiX9uu4SG3Oc7InxSQKYoHokLfaaGRDrtJ5aBKWlxdIoIVXBECxgHnqAo2oHiLtVh2M-YylieMfa2nyvjE3V3ohx3xp8iyf98KZhZ9_XjEeIDrMLRh0ZlnNtIEOBVZ1D8/s2048/PXL_20210329_105438016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1374" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7EpnRaEXjtkGiX9uu4SG3Oc7InxSQKYoHokLfaaGRDrtJ5aBKWlxdIoIVXBECxgHnqAo2oHiLtVh2M-YylieMfa2nyvjE3V3ohx3xp8iyf98KZhZ9_XjEeIDrMLRh0ZlnNtIEOBVZ1D8/w269-h400/PXL_20210329_105438016.jpg" width="269" /></a></div><br /><p>Here are the parts. Note that both cones have a small flange turned on them, but only one cone, the moveable one, has flats to make it a nut. That's because it is used to adjust bearing play - while the hub is on the bike! The other cone on the axle is intended to stay fixed - there's a stop on the axle to prevent it passing further along the thread. Note that neither cones have locking nuts (90mm across the outsides of the cones). </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQsk1UN8JHwxlKYUtFgjHNfSJJlBPz1DhgbF4c__9pjIcl8jrbfr9Yo_16kU9h0oaRQG4NjP1Qt76nZPyN0bAjjMvK0CNIX5OHgEWxlkCNiZWvbuRs_GN8t4cGKevDDltd9Z4PYUJUZMQ/s2048/PXL_20210329_105850082.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1206" data-original-width="2048" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQsk1UN8JHwxlKYUtFgjHNfSJJlBPz1DhgbF4c__9pjIcl8jrbfr9Yo_16kU9h0oaRQG4NjP1Qt76nZPyN0bAjjMvK0CNIX5OHgEWxlkCNiZWvbuRs_GN8t4cGKevDDltd9Z4PYUJUZMQ/w400-h235/PXL_20210329_105850082.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />You have to hand spring the front fork slightly opening the front dropouts a tad to let the flanges of each cone fit in. I measured my forks at 87mm across the insides, so that's a decent 3mm spring. Once in though, the hub will stay put, held by the cones, even before you put the nuts and washers on the outside of the forks. So, the clever bit is that you can adjust bearing play by sliding a cone spanner inside the fork on to the flats of the cone nut, and turning slightly. Once set, tighten the outside washers and axle nuts, and that holds it all down. Quite neat and clever and they run pretty smoothly (even this one despite the wear groove in the cone). Just remember to put the fixed cone on the right (drive side) of the bike, because on the other side, there will be a natural tendency for the bearing to tighten, which can be harmful to it. As an experiment, assemble and hold the axle ends in your hands, give the wheel a spin and fiddle about - it's easy to see the natural tendency of the bearing to tighten up when the fixed cone is on the left, and the natural tendency to loosen with the fixed cone on the right. But don't worry, they won't loosen in use, because the external nuts lock everything in position. <p></p><p>For the inner tube side surface of the rims, I simply spray a bit of WD40, brass wire brush and then a quick going over with a slightly coarser steel wool. Wipe it off with a small cotton bath towel, and hey presto, clean insides ready for rim tape. For the Sturmey Archer AW I merely oiled it using a cheap plastic pipette and 1:3 mix of car transmission fluid to 5W engine oil. The pipette allows a small measure to be squirted easily into the oil port. That three speed tickety tick! As they say, AW stands for Always Works...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpARtvtazAJxn3pFctYNX7mRaqDiqm8_Gt_pNoYIJ0g-qbxMc6PPJNzLB61-s21AIZWIdvy8XP7mazpC85k3TQ6ojYnliP3h8N3vEVK8P_t6oElI4WN3_EAbmLCdBZdyEhImftbbmwvDc/s2048/PXL_20210329_114319674.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1242" data-original-width="2048" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpARtvtazAJxn3pFctYNX7mRaqDiqm8_Gt_pNoYIJ0g-qbxMc6PPJNzLB61-s21AIZWIdvy8XP7mazpC85k3TQ6ojYnliP3h8N3vEVK8P_t6oElI4WN3_EAbmLCdBZdyEhImftbbmwvDc/w640-h388/PXL_20210329_114319674.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>So here they are, shiny chrome wheels, and hubs, bling bling! After a bit more tightening and truing, I'll dress them in new white-wall shoes. </p>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-38157407638718304302021-03-24T12:10:00.002-07:002021-04-02T11:31:13.905-07:00Raleigh Twenty Steerer Restrictions and Bottom Bracket<p>There are two mechanical restrictions on the steerer assembly of the Raleigh Twenty, here, a BSA 20. </p><p><b>VERTICAL RESTRICTION</b></p><p>As promised in an earlier post, here's a photo underneath the steerer, looking between the front forks: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6U3ehBYDLliyFx0vu-0WPEV2xLhb4Kjq3Ry8UHMC1sOeYb2Ouc9rHjN6Ds0StYJFgAHQw42eK0onJNSfniCsF3Qnv4WCvA6pThHyiO8f2lpr9Xa1X3L7A8qPLh8WwaqcQbuNybFALYxA/s1658/Wiresteerer.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1658" data-original-width="1632" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6U3ehBYDLliyFx0vu-0WPEV2xLhb4Kjq3Ry8UHMC1sOeYb2Ouc9rHjN6Ds0StYJFgAHQw42eK0onJNSfniCsF3Qnv4WCvA6pThHyiO8f2lpr9Xa1X3L7A8qPLh8WwaqcQbuNybFALYxA/w394-h400/Wiresteerer.jpg" width="394" /></a></div><p>You can see the wire wrapped around the main brake bolt. The wire also attaches to the stem:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkuFXIJe5vH1IG4fpN8odvNPzkVNNpeZ6Z_BGUlNb-Db8ccKGJ_pX2v6rN-3rDKnPMnOrzwSBgk7f2hiEvHBIDAW25nAeFqp_UQfHljM2X6GjeJRlnHqrVOxA3eGe84wcA2z4pZduDgyo/s2048/PXL_20210402_145558663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1889" data-original-width="2048" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkuFXIJe5vH1IG4fpN8odvNPzkVNNpeZ6Z_BGUlNb-Db8ccKGJ_pX2v6rN-3rDKnPMnOrzwSBgk7f2hiEvHBIDAW25nAeFqp_UQfHljM2X6GjeJRlnHqrVOxA3eGe84wcA2z4pZduDgyo/w400-h369/PXL_20210402_145558663.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>The wire could be copper or some kind of bronze. Here's a close up of wire twisted up around a pin in the stem:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsOhpCfmsb8qLLP_0Z0cNvhRpi5oU8t1JYSZq4m4EuFIhJsv0Ard_GRXoeiff7kjvizK5lt1uflph6OA4ONCHajR5E2VT0_Q5RCJYPI96pLJbfryP5oXfaO5xIozpes0Y1h6wdwSMSfQk/s1841/PXL_20210402_145701188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1841" data-original-width="1409" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsOhpCfmsb8qLLP_0Z0cNvhRpi5oU8t1JYSZq4m4EuFIhJsv0Ard_GRXoeiff7kjvizK5lt1uflph6OA4ONCHajR5E2VT0_Q5RCJYPI96pLJbfryP5oXfaO5xIozpes0Y1h6wdwSMSfQk/w306-h400/PXL_20210402_145701188.jpg" width="306" /></a></div><p>The wire's function is to prevent the stem from being completely pulled out of the steerer tube. At the top of the first photo at the start of this blog post, you can see the bent plate chromed bracket on the brake bolt, sitting snug against the front of the forks. </p><p><b>ROTATIONAL RESTRICTION</b></p><p>Here is another view of that bracket, this time from above:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqLWS-J8XHoEjL9wAp2CNPXO89TUOH743WVBJ3hehGaGZJvmx6JiQaYfQA_2Yk2t_3XbyFyj7VZ_Z6DweKFWFu2Hpn1iARzVjCiMdcM9R5QImqCqNkL6hJLGxz52sKHd3gL5Itq5oi7Q/s2048/Steerer+bracket.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2008" data-original-width="2048" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqLWS-J8XHoEjL9wAp2CNPXO89TUOH743WVBJ3hehGaGZJvmx6JiQaYfQA_2Yk2t_3XbyFyj7VZ_Z6DweKFWFu2Hpn1iARzVjCiMdcM9R5QImqCqNkL6hJLGxz52sKHd3gL5Itq5oi7Q/w400-h393/Steerer+bracket.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>If you don't know what the bracket's for, then you may think it to be some kind of "English decorative curio", or a basket attachment! But I hope this picture helps you to understand the function of the odd shaped bracket. As the handlebars are turned, the bracket "folded hands" hits the metal welded C shape plate behind the head tube. So, the steerer <i>stop</i> bracket and that welded C shape plate on the back of the headtube together provide a mechanical restriction to the range of movement of the forks. <p></p><p>I believe that both of these steerer restrictions were intended as safety features, but I'm not certain of that.</p><p><b>CRANK REMOVAL & BOTTOM BRACKET SERVICE</b></p><p>I also took off the cranks for servicing the bottom bracket. The non-drive side cotter pin came off easily. But the drive side one was stuck like a pig. Removing a seized cotter pin has got to be my <u>most unfavourite bike mechanic job</u>! I had to drill it out, and it was a real struggle. Here is the first pilot hole: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1wpyCKsHSQhaVLsC-HHG5I2Ewqnd_xJ2EANcYe2TNfVVCLLqN-eoTOSorS_daQWOlFNrxmz6cz73_YqT-yR2xErcOD9s1_JDGO2LgYVCfu8OsuBLSE9hBWcXjyVAPWKQl2MFiqj6fTfI/s2048/Drilled.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1996" data-original-width="2048" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1wpyCKsHSQhaVLsC-HHG5I2Ewqnd_xJ2EANcYe2TNfVVCLLqN-eoTOSorS_daQWOlFNrxmz6cz73_YqT-yR2xErcOD9s1_JDGO2LgYVCfu8OsuBLSE9hBWcXjyVAPWKQl2MFiqj6fTfI/w400-h390/Drilled.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>You've got to use something as cutting fluid (I used 3in1 oil). I then followed up with wider diameter drills and finally after much hammer dynamics, got the *#*£$@! out (one day later!). </p><p>And I finish with some photos of the BB shell, axle and cups, apart and reassembled. The axle is 14.2cm long, and measures about 6cm between cones. There are 11 balls of 1/4" on each side. It's clear that this bike was not much used, which makes it a great candidate for a clean up and service. Restoration using as many of the original parts as possible.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvKxNYF-xaRpsX_bgmC-7rBL09uOzrEkQyF6ntOjTb8yyIM7MV5VUHYkCBYNQTR3YHdBD7xQmJJSHWBDqrlpEeyydonhITxPcwJOZYn5MGpGbOfk_A2vsu6g4Iqls1pVtkvdOh6PYgQAQ/s1981/BBshell.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1981" data-original-width="1612" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvKxNYF-xaRpsX_bgmC-7rBL09uOzrEkQyF6ntOjTb8yyIM7MV5VUHYkCBYNQTR3YHdBD7xQmJJSHWBDqrlpEeyydonhITxPcwJOZYn5MGpGbOfk_A2vsu6g4Iqls1pVtkvdOh6PYgQAQ/w325-h400/BBshell.jpg" width="325" /></a></div><p></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5910s1c-0EJEG2R-vrJWMymj0csPYI9Zrif8qvsMjUXZ8fccn4Ffa6_v8EB8B8YVjNg_yRj6rxkDGXDlIDHoBEoZSf9BAHx6R7W6udRrgwNsCnXkKdFeMYD18O1l-obb_iNVbgfp2-A/s2004/Axle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1844" data-original-width="2004" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5910s1c-0EJEG2R-vrJWMymj0csPYI9Zrif8qvsMjUXZ8fccn4Ffa6_v8EB8B8YVjNg_yRj6rxkDGXDlIDHoBEoZSf9BAHx6R7W6udRrgwNsCnXkKdFeMYD18O1l-obb_iNVbgfp2-A/w400-h368/Axle.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGAeYlmButc7ytOn5CXYd9CxbtEKv9Qo9IfYv-qJzYscZ582oYqEjmpsdzLOx2PFDZqzjLiWHi9LgMMptQESePK_emIWzy0YNIEW6m773PQ1_jBn-GSYPk3bsVr3kprhMzWc407aaoPy8/s2048/BBreassembled_nondrive.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1393" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGAeYlmButc7ytOn5CXYd9CxbtEKv9Qo9IfYv-qJzYscZ582oYqEjmpsdzLOx2PFDZqzjLiWHi9LgMMptQESePK_emIWzy0YNIEW6m773PQ1_jBn-GSYPk3bsVr3kprhMzWc407aaoPy8/w273-h400/BBreassembled_nondrive.jpg" width="273" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy9ZPZHOMGSkZHHZKkvXbyaZKKO7RdlgUeG7ZtjB3IAPb0ar-yjRMl2Aq7ZAGrJmIBBYlT-KxhNMATpwAV2iydWiC4-cxNQPozJvTXYFRB-m3rXTac8hnZD567d0oj4J9dYtpPPTtRP24/s2048/BBreassembledd_driveside.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1523" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy9ZPZHOMGSkZHHZKkvXbyaZKKO7RdlgUeG7ZtjB3IAPb0ar-yjRMl2Aq7ZAGrJmIBBYlT-KxhNMATpwAV2iydWiC4-cxNQPozJvTXYFRB-m3rXTac8hnZD567d0oj4J9dYtpPPTtRP24/w298-h400/BBreassembledd_driveside.jpg" width="298" /></a></div><p>I think the drive side cup is welded in - in any case, I didn't bother trying to remove it. Now I just need to find some new cotter pins, which as far as I can tell are 3/8" in diameter. Whether or not it's considered right, I WILL use some copper anti-seize when I fit them. </p>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-17397643355658821432021-03-17T03:42:00.002-07:002021-03-17T03:57:59.235-07:00Servicing a Raleigh Twenty 20 Headset: Nylon Bushing, Crazy Design?!<p>The headset arrangement on a Raleigh 20 is a little bonkers in my view. The bottom part is a conventional ball bearing race, and really quite good. The top half is the bottom half's Frankenstein brother. In this sequence of photos I'll show you details, as I open up this BSA 20 for inspection, cleaning and lubrication. (For replacing the top part, see this <a href="http://workingoncycles.blogspot.com/2010/08/infamous-nylon-headset-bushing.html">previous post</a>). Here's the front view:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3BychyphenhyphenMhCXq7T-xIt9Au3qHd_HG2GnS5nLpws-W1pPUBQ2xbzyu_zbPZ0xuBhK9KCT5yHI5LrgmjClNKEsWpIbVxQOx79LmiatRYn5QPYfRtRCmwSYoC8TaMpstzTDWyP8xEpIfZnBjA/s2734/PXL_20210312_124936599.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2734" data-original-width="1150" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3BychyphenhyphenMhCXq7T-xIt9Au3qHd_HG2GnS5nLpws-W1pPUBQ2xbzyu_zbPZ0xuBhK9KCT5yHI5LrgmjClNKEsWpIbVxQOx79LmiatRYn5QPYfRtRCmwSYoC8TaMpstzTDWyP8xEpIfZnBjA/w169-h400/PXL_20210312_124936599.jpg" width="169" /></a></div>Now remember that the stem has restricted vertical movement in the steerer, because of a wire loop tie inside at its foot. I don't have a photo of that here, but when I get the wheels and mudguard off next, I'll try to take some pictures. For now, note that the stem can be lifted up a little, but cannot be taken out. Below is a pic of the top part of the headset. From the top: stem, top lock nut, light bracket, second lock nut (hidden by the light bracket), stem-steerer clamp, and a metal top cap:<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWWg5mNy-Aky0T0_y-7VgFkW8WyRhUvLSerBu9VeXdeup5al2rn0vTvieFNmDwewUHBxHXxYmZunvyytqqv6MLbzrYL4d46Yd6dB1El777ozuiZ5f9WTrBsXkNQbsmRSNY7xhnrRoJ9FA/s2048/PXL_20210315_154337927.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1547" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWWg5mNy-Aky0T0_y-7VgFkW8WyRhUvLSerBu9VeXdeup5al2rn0vTvieFNmDwewUHBxHXxYmZunvyytqqv6MLbzrYL4d46Yd6dB1El777ozuiZ5f9WTrBsXkNQbsmRSNY7xhnrRoJ9FA/w303-h400/PXL_20210315_154337927.jpg" width="303" /></a></div><p>So, straight away you can see that the clamp squashes between the lock nuts above it and the head tube bearing below it. This is a less than ideal situation for good bearing preload. Let's open up from the top:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxs7SWEcQ8C3kZfJVaBhe9uvGhgpX4QzTUYkt6rVbMR1dGx0oT-l7QrbPBczUMZ2AmaibGOu5X8k8MTolvOlaJRwgEYFepdQawGbJbGJSQp_7mcqi6jBWugBbtQ8Hw4JYi5r4K2qDV_c/s2048/PXL_20210315_154538629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1562" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxs7SWEcQ8C3kZfJVaBhe9uvGhgpX4QzTUYkt6rVbMR1dGx0oT-l7QrbPBczUMZ2AmaibGOu5X8k8MTolvOlaJRwgEYFepdQawGbJbGJSQp_7mcqi6jBWugBbtQ8Hw4JYi5r4K2qDV_c/w305-h400/PXL_20210315_154538629.jpg" width="305" /></a></div>With the nut off and light bracket lifted, you can see the second lock nut properly. Unscrew that second lock nut and raise the parts: <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9UP9dr-dFEIggdSAIE2KiBSvSafcw6HjoOepV2rklKKA1BOQz1sVaxEZqYhbnjTViWHPzEHWAWTPfy9wdsnOXZqaMLmwG5SyHbtGVBrJrJ3tfXDuvIq6Vxg8_EpXJzrZnTkzODanifiw/s2048/PXL_20210315_155051853.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1319" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9UP9dr-dFEIggdSAIE2KiBSvSafcw6HjoOepV2rklKKA1BOQz1sVaxEZqYhbnjTViWHPzEHWAWTPfy9wdsnOXZqaMLmwG5SyHbtGVBrJrJ3tfXDuvIq6Vxg8_EpXJzrZnTkzODanifiw/w258-h400/PXL_20210315_155051853.jpg" width="258" /></a></div><p>I've taken off the clamp lever in the photo above. Note that the bolt has a square flange and can be removed to allow the clamp to lift up easily over the threads. You can see the metal top cap has indentations on its lid. That's what I mean by not ideal for bearing preload - the clamp interferes with the even downward force of the lock nuts. And beneath, you can see the top edge of the infamous nylon bushing. How does the clamp join the stem to the steerer tube I hear you ask? Well, because of this cut out</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjJBsWJ6vImQ2mROFyGJtnAnEq8EwlVcEWxjLDfX-62kQ31yZYLqKo48yIwMrREbXZNdrP8O0vzHj71wyC9SlNEDfUx-3MC7fQmoCrJpWq_BJEAOOssR7wNaBIgUpG_pMb_jtki9DuDg8/s2048/PXL_20210315_155152317.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1068" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjJBsWJ6vImQ2mROFyGJtnAnEq8EwlVcEWxjLDfX-62kQ31yZYLqKo48yIwMrREbXZNdrP8O0vzHj71wyC9SlNEDfUx-3MC7fQmoCrJpWq_BJEAOOssR7wNaBIgUpG_pMb_jtki9DuDg8/w209-h400/PXL_20210315_155152317.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><br />You can see how the clamp edges push on the sides of the T shaped cut to press the steerer on to the stem tube. Obviously, the designer was trying to deal with how to raise and lower a stem without having to deal with expander bolts as in a regular quill stem. It just about works, but I would not describe it as an elegant solution! This time, I was not replacing the top bearing, merely inspecting, cleaning and lubricating. I used a drop of thick gearbox oil around the inside of the nylon bushing to help the steerer tube rotate inside it. Don't put too much in there, because you need the stem to clamp to the steerer and excess lube might mess that up.<p></p><p>Finally, I serviced the bottom race, which is fiddly without taking the stem out, but can be done. Just make sure you have a sheet on the floor to catch any loose ball bearings when you first lift it up. When I did that, the ball race was dry, with a bit of hard stuck grime on the race that needed to be removed. Below, is a photo of the bottom bearing opened up, the 25 balls of 5/32" removed, cleaned, greased up ready for the shiny balls to be placed on the lubed cup. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5_QiG8niSzQl5CXycugX5PKVCSWCloHTIw8Dstr5-qOXDG6ZDrKKhZDTO9NZxO8T2hJHivaYYTOQHssiNpv4eLGCtPEU7HQyiJQLuV2Nfx1JhyphenhyphenkUWu6JsTNuLEm3eRBzJna2dGuf4jQo/s2048/PXL_20210315_162144889.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1895" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5_QiG8niSzQl5CXycugX5PKVCSWCloHTIw8Dstr5-qOXDG6ZDrKKhZDTO9NZxO8T2hJHivaYYTOQHssiNpv4eLGCtPEU7HQyiJQLuV2Nfx1JhyphenhyphenkUWu6JsTNuLEm3eRBzJna2dGuf4jQo/w370-h400/PXL_20210315_162144889.jpg" width="370" /></a></div><p>The bottom cup is pretty chunky as you can see, and merely sits on the fork crown. In this example it was not a tight friction fit, as compared to a regular crown race on a typical fork. </p><p>In a <a href="http://workingoncycles.blogspot.com/2010/08/infamous-nylon-headset-bushing.html">previous post</a> (search on Raleigh Twenty Project) I showed some pictures of the headset replacement that I did on a blue Triumph Trafficmaster 20. Although I kept good photos of the nylon bushing and bottom race, I didn't make a thorough a photo record of how I fitted the 1" threadless top bearing. So when I do the next one, I'll take more photos of how to get rid of that nylon bushing and replace it with proper bearings.</p><p>This time, though, I was only inspecting, cleaning and lubing. It was enough to improve the steering of this particular "shopper bike". While it's better than before, I know it can be improved a lot more, but that would require this stem to be untied from its base, chucking the clamp, fitting a new quill stem, which probably means new handlebars, etc. By the way, another approach is to completely replace the forks and headset (the head tube diameter is relatively conventional traditional size). </p><p>However, my plan for this bike is not really modernisation, but rather rejuvenation with judicious restoration. Which is what working on this cycle and riding it gives me a bit of!</p>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-44284998473713410032019-03-23T07:46:00.001-07:002019-03-24T09:23:09.750-07:00Dawes Impulse, Reynolds 531, ShimergoHere's a comfortable ride that I recently acquired via an internet sale:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWGN5EGi3x40dtCVMVHcKVczI4MwgGWYO-kd7UfhYFyQkbrq2juZitFPyWPMRe_x1d6xjFhgrnFGBxem7JvR1z8kN_u6el7F_tzWKAiCs1zNWH51xJI2fzuvnu9V6IY84atHpuHNwoP78/s1600/IMG_20190317_Dawes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1480" data-original-width="1600" height="592" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWGN5EGi3x40dtCVMVHcKVczI4MwgGWYO-kd7UfhYFyQkbrq2juZitFPyWPMRe_x1d6xjFhgrnFGBxem7JvR1z8kN_u6el7F_tzWKAiCs1zNWH51xJI2fzuvnu9V6IY84atHpuHNwoP78/s640/IMG_20190317_Dawes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here is what it looked like on purchase, before I sorted out the handlebars, changed the front wheel, and fettled the brakes:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJ3xwhEydOYxPGvUyiAzPcV7XRqF7hYQ5LMvOW9iUq46MMv6ryPKHjBa7-FNpoDamNwyS-45O8f5f5GqsQAc3sMllyheET6Ta_0BdA3O4-WrZC5xOunduwJaaayDtqaQdcDM99WtQYjU/s1600/ImpulseBefore.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJ3xwhEydOYxPGvUyiAzPcV7XRqF7hYQ5LMvOW9iUq46MMv6ryPKHjBa7-FNpoDamNwyS-45O8f5f5GqsQAc3sMllyheET6Ta_0BdA3O4-WrZC5xOunduwJaaayDtqaQdcDM99WtQYjU/s400/ImpulseBefore.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Here are extracts from 1990 Dawes catalogue:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNYcZcnRRSK8SpV9yUHFhZjn3xgPIx0P4sEn6P9cWwGk-gDfaPEVXTCuvXsT-nnq-_vVy-RPcCgjpwwIEz8eOPiYaNhxxS7oFzwmuFaVdmhp5tj2IRgFNiFO4uedUV6giJ3jnasXAPnXg/s1600/Screenshot+%25284%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="682" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNYcZcnRRSK8SpV9yUHFhZjn3xgPIx0P4sEn6P9cWwGk-gDfaPEVXTCuvXsT-nnq-_vVy-RPcCgjpwwIEz8eOPiYaNhxxS7oFzwmuFaVdmhp5tj2IRgFNiFO4uedUV6giJ3jnasXAPnXg/s400/Screenshot+%25284%2529.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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And some blurb and data:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjznLwUSBND3l7Jk3I5Arz8jh62nvFp9WRCz0FAu9z_pmkhXvhucd-a8docdCuX_ot-0EneNn4cTHctvJTTHh0OuGsQcOtqbibWLoFpPZasxLYlIO-FlinpcV8uE3R39qEn2pCGufqpVJ4/s1600/Screenshot+%25285%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="378" data-original-width="549" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjznLwUSBND3l7Jk3I5Arz8jh62nvFp9WRCz0FAu9z_pmkhXvhucd-a8docdCuX_ot-0EneNn4cTHctvJTTHh0OuGsQcOtqbibWLoFpPZasxLYlIO-FlinpcV8uE3R39qEn2pCGufqpVJ4/s640/Screenshot+%25285%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Rest of the catalogue data:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-isCDuJN-W4sV_jUdhkEfAsaiSqSEDhjNIwUnRg7yIpSeWnzZPGXn7qDiEUTWNJRCOkw-Y8lGpfQEL5OX2KqgP5MR_KGK2-Z9uiYFuaEA5EGP9SY47t1gfJnsFY4NhrXyRPQasu8TCc/s1600/Screenshot+%25288%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="142" data-original-width="614" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-isCDuJN-W4sV_jUdhkEfAsaiSqSEDhjNIwUnRg7yIpSeWnzZPGXn7qDiEUTWNJRCOkw-Y8lGpfQEL5OX2KqgP5MR_KGK2-Z9uiYFuaEA5EGP9SY47t1gfJnsFY4NhrXyRPQasu8TCc/s640/Screenshot+%25288%2529.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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In my sample, it seems that quite a few parts have been changed. However, I think the original chainset Exage Biopace 52/42T 170 and brake levers were still on. The gearing was a bit insane, with a Shimano Uniglide 6 speed hub, and lowest gear of 42-21T (53"). But, it shifted well. So, I changed the bottom bracket from the cone and axle cotterless to a sealed cartridge Shimano 110mm unit, and the chainset to a 46/36T 175. This gave much more manageable gears with a low of 36-21T (45").<br />
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And here's a photo of it today, with the new chainset, saddle, seatpost, tyres and the as purchased front wheel back on:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJVwt4fH2HcsC7vN_-1rNUBkkWCYcuMOr3aC5zWyL5Xa6UR3WoMqroM91EEWon1VKB0m2YjMPketHvMBGH1_Xakg70M0gn3cDSeXmWeFHdoh4K5gD3KyNf-mAMqCwMLcUCzDS1aoOwdLw/s1600/IMG_20190323_Dawes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1102" data-original-width="1600" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJVwt4fH2HcsC7vN_-1rNUBkkWCYcuMOr3aC5zWyL5Xa6UR3WoMqroM91EEWon1VKB0m2YjMPketHvMBGH1_Xakg70M0gn3cDSeXmWeFHdoh4K5gD3KyNf-mAMqCwMLcUCzDS1aoOwdLw/s640/IMG_20190323_Dawes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next step is to get rid of the DT shifters in the most convenient way possible. I love DT shifters, but one has to admit that bar-mounted shifters are better. The rims are grey anodised Mavic-MA40 and are virtually new - definitely not what was on the machine as shipped by Dawes. These rims have been rather nicely laced on to decent refurbed hubs - Campagnolo in front and Shimano FH-RM50 ND (6 spd Uniglide) at rear. Not only that, the 6 speed system is shifting well, so I'm minded to leave it as is.<br />
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I measured the pitch (distance between sprocket centres) as best I can, and made it 5.5mm. Consulting <a href="https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Gear-changing_Dimensions">references on Shimergo</a> - btw, I'm really annoyed with the CTC and their shoddy reproduction of Chris Juden's article on the subject - tables are chopped-up/wrong/missing! - I'm minded to try simply fitting second hand Campagnolo 8 speed Ergo shifters. The undoctored chart (Table 4) indicates that with the 'hubbub' rear mech clamp tweak, there would be ~0.03mm discrepancy in cog pitch, so it ought to work. I have some DT stops already in my bike bits. The 1990s 8 speed Campagnolo shifters that I've seen for sale often have splits in the brake hoods. I'll probably have to get new hoods, but that's not a big deal. Even if I'd not bothered with a Shimergo mod, I'd have had to buy replacements for the current tatty and discoloured gummy ones. They are supposed to be white, but they've disintegrated to beige.<br />
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However, the rear mech does not appear to have a hubbub-able cable clamp! That said, old style Campagnolo 9 speed shifters give a pitch of 5.49mm, whereas the new style ones of same speed provide 5.26mm. This is going to be interesting...<br />
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Excited to try this and blog about it later.Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-11436594820478344562018-07-27T11:50:00.000-07:002018-07-28T06:23:50.479-07:00Chuck's Tech Opinion: Bicycle pumps, pressure gauges: Can you trust their measurement? Can you believe in the pressure measurement of your pump or tyre pressure gauge? Here are a couple of handy gauges: Schwalbe digital gauge on the left and an analogue AccuGage on the right:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpneEaYYvLNPxb10WDxHGUz7A8Wu_YYUQu1K4ZEoTYD4dZd3GlPD6-esGoblFpdrHfHNlM2I0334mF-clgd-9eSnMcU0kH5CfwbbmUARhvVLJrfD89AvSYL81DjxCjwPZ1eiUBU4raNas/s1600/IMG_20180722_092044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1401" data-original-width="1600" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpneEaYYvLNPxb10WDxHGUz7A8Wu_YYUQu1K4ZEoTYD4dZd3GlPD6-esGoblFpdrHfHNlM2I0334mF-clgd-9eSnMcU0kH5CfwbbmUARhvVLJrfD89AvSYL81DjxCjwPZ1eiUBU4raNas/s400/IMG_20180722_092044.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Digital Schwalbe: 35g<br />
Analogue AccuGage: 86g<br />
Many pumps, both big and small, have gauges these days. L to R in the photo below: Lezyne Floor Drive (steel), Topeak Joe Blow Sport and Topeak Turbo Morph G: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpR0mHyCHhz8VoNA67hpcirKnSS_k86nZmdj5WK4YZAbcGpbSIgFtiHcDvET3AeB4osUi_nKpGpyY2xsyC0oTN-XwjYasJ2Bf4ldsl3V0EIdP53UqcyJqjMvbhgIHXQ2KDF2rRH6TsBX0/s1600/IMG_20180722_125744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1210" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpR0mHyCHhz8VoNA67hpcirKnSS_k86nZmdj5WK4YZAbcGpbSIgFtiHcDvET3AeB4osUi_nKpGpyY2xsyC0oTN-XwjYasJ2Bf4ldsl3V0EIdP53UqcyJqjMvbhgIHXQ2KDF2rRH6TsBX0/s400/IMG_20180722_125744.jpg" width="301" /></a></div>
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So, with these pumps and gauges, I decided to gather some data to see what I could find out. Using a large volume presta valve MTB tyre (Maxxis Ardent), a Challenge Grifo cyclocross tyre, and a Continental Ultra Sport road tyre, I set various pressures using the Joe Blow Sport. I chose that one simply because it was new and the gauge nice and clear: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6yWEZi86Ls9Tj6IoTVZsVSO-f6GNseJI4GzGf2o4tD8-QbsT2WR8dI0OHVbD9gMznKWGjG0z0kU6zMcum5fxRdnn4Im2KEKrk7nH8J2Avfgzm6bOxDwss7tsK89UBIihDebo3gy21dl4/s1600/IMG_20180722_130330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1324" data-original-width="1600" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6yWEZi86Ls9Tj6IoTVZsVSO-f6GNseJI4GzGf2o4tD8-QbsT2WR8dI0OHVbD9gMznKWGjG0z0kU6zMcum5fxRdnn4Im2KEKrk7nH8J2Avfgzm6bOxDwss7tsK89UBIihDebo3gy21dl4/s400/IMG_20180722_130330.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The protocol was to set a pressure with this pump, and then with the other pumps and gauges to check what reading they gave. So the Joe Blow acted as the reference value. Of course, we don't know which of these gauges gives the best <b>absolute</b> measurement. </div>
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<i>Absolute</i> means closest to the actual correct standard unit measurement. Contrast with <i>precision</i>, which is about how repeatable a measurement is. </div>
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Here is a close up of the gauge on the small Morph: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXPjaZ_JktMhjTnqPPK8gFCJENAkYO_uLAOIyHPFT3YL7jzwX8FjznQo0zZJfMt-Of2ii1fT2R6JHL3JKGU3GBVc-XWfPA6GNtFTYEOZEOcv6r63BL0YlrsOX20dsgd7V_7fsM1xj0ilw/s1600/IMG_20180722_130309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1477" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXPjaZ_JktMhjTnqPPK8gFCJENAkYO_uLAOIyHPFT3YL7jzwX8FjznQo0zZJfMt-Of2ii1fT2R6JHL3JKGU3GBVc-XWfPA6GNtFTYEOZEOcv6r63BL0YlrsOX20dsgd7V_7fsM1xj0ilw/s400/IMG_20180722_130309.jpg" width="368" /></a></div>
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I didn't expect the small dial to allow precision in measurement. And finally, the Lezyne dial, which has a crack in it: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh21nsjej0OioNt68n5QJW2uH0BZiZ-VAEfY_aJLWRvc9mlI_YXYFwM1brt7Q7Kd4rRoftNK7VJiQAqtOTBPBg-GjX3Oa1Vb-PnxmEMQ5VBwwS_nP2M8RiQZQyiL98nzt5cAvpBWCt7VBw/s1600/IMG_20180722_130409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1398" data-original-width="1600" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh21nsjej0OioNt68n5QJW2uH0BZiZ-VAEfY_aJLWRvc9mlI_YXYFwM1brt7Q7Kd4rRoftNK7VJiQAqtOTBPBg-GjX3Oa1Vb-PnxmEMQ5VBwwS_nP2M8RiQZQyiL98nzt5cAvpBWCt7VBw/s400/IMG_20180722_130409.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The clear issue here is what looks like a zero error. With no tyre attached to the pump, it reads about 20psi. (I could not find a way to zero its gauge). I did my best to minimise air escape while switching between gauges. </div>
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OK, with that description, here are the results in a graph (units on each axis are psi):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gspqNWoly9pNbqsZ6YFTKv5SKSVzp1jdmm4wARGyWNLZ_9YHxPew98Q867U1zWnAcaNx0JQDIuwCBLJQ2QHd_bQEfOy5Xg0pFNCAtUpRoeO7ZX8fBUfr-tj-H_0Dpxswh4c9jSXthvY/s1600/IMG_20180722_160727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1372" data-original-width="1600" height="548" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gspqNWoly9pNbqsZ6YFTKv5SKSVzp1jdmm4wARGyWNLZ_9YHxPew98Q867U1zWnAcaNx0JQDIuwCBLJQ2QHd_bQEfOy5Xg0pFNCAtUpRoeO7ZX8fBUfr-tj-H_0Dpxswh4c9jSXthvY/s640/IMG_20180722_160727.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The x=y line is the Joe Blow "reference" value. You can see that the AccuGage ('+') and the Schwalbe digital ('solid dots') followed that line very well up to about 50psi. For higher pressures, the Schwalbe still followed that line well, but the AccuGage fell a bit below it (~5psi at 80psi). Remember, we've just randomly selected the Joe Blow to act as the reference. The Morph ('open circles') seems to be reading generally 5psi higher than Joe Blow reference and the two stand alone gauges. Most obviously, the Lezyne ('x') reads consistently ~20psi higher than the Joe Blow, AccuGage and Scwhalbe. </div>
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The other thing that came out during this test is that ease of use is a big deal. The Lezyne and the Joe Blow are the easiest pumps to use. The Morph is rather awkward in comparison, and reading the dial is not easy. Both of the stand alone gauges require a bit of practice to use efficiently. With the knurled nut of the Presta valve slightly open, you push the gauge down over the valve and the instrument measures and holds the reading. Out of the two, the AccuGage was much nicer to use because it was easier to slide over the knurled nut of the valve. This seems to be down to its external shape and the size of the opening. The needle stays where it is until you press the very convenient air release button. No batteries, no switching on or off. The Schwalbe has a smaller hole, so tends to contact the knurled nut on a Presta valve more and allow air to escape. Also, the oval shape doesn't give the hands as much purchase on the tool. Perfectly functional, but compared to the AccuGage it was a little irritating during use. On the other hand, the digital gauge is lighter and fits better in a jersey pocket.<br />
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It seems reasonable to conclude that because three gauges were pretty consistent with each other (Joe Blow, AccuGage analogue and Schwalbe digital) that these are the closest to measuring the absolute pressure value. That conclusion is consistent with the Lezyne simply suffering a +20psi zero error.<br />
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I will continue to use the Lezyne, despite what appears to be its lack of absolute accuracy. All I need to remember is that it reads 20psi high consistently across the usual tyre pressure ranges. This is purely a <i>systematic</i> error. The Morph gauge reads about 5psi high, but its dial has poor resolution anyway. Its utility is in its portability and the fact that for its small size, it can pump up pretty hard. For off road and remote use (e.g. with a pocket pump), the stand alone gauges would get the nod. I'd use the Schwalbe when I need to be able to differentiate between 1 or 2 psi (cyclocross) or if I need to carry a gauge in my pocket. That said, the ease of use of the AccuGage is a big attractor. </div>
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Yes, you can trust your pressure gauge measurement, BUT only if you really understand what it's telling you!</div>
Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-78549979440639851912018-04-28T03:36:00.000-07:002018-07-27T17:53:59.577-07:00Park Tool Derailleur Hanger Alignment tool DAG 2.2 - ReviewWhy didn't I buy this earlier?! Yes, it's relatively expensive, but within a year I've used it on 6 bikes and am very happy with the results. Why? Because it improved rear mech changing performance hugely. In some cases, transforming a noisy, crunchy, chain-scruncher to a beautifully efficient "click-whirr"! In my view the tool has easily paid its way already.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXaz5P-6W1Ss-8XNWVsnvowPRxejwFycbz6hlSTGAwcQgS6qC7G8BzNI1LYuiKNc3ZbL6zKapuFob8fqaDNdL3-g9jHT6KtANO3FlBbY4z3IMJvTsSC5t2n-qO6qkqc7fAJjdddpPpWY/s1600/dag2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="1366" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXaz5P-6W1Ss-8XNWVsnvowPRxejwFycbz6hlSTGAwcQgS6qC7G8BzNI1LYuiKNc3ZbL6zKapuFob8fqaDNdL3-g9jHT6KtANO3FlBbY4z3IMJvTsSC5t2n-qO6qkqc7fAJjdddpPpWY/s320/dag2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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I had bought the tool for when the bike may have pranged on something, or fallen on to the drive side, putting the hanger visibly out of alignment. But to my surprise, it's been very helpful for new bikes too. Which tells me that alignment is not always (hardly ever?) checked when a new bike or frame goes out the shop-door to a customer!<br />
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The purpose of the thing is to ensure that the rear mech is well-aligned with the sprockets on your back wheel. More precisely, the tool ensures that the plane of the cassette's sprockets is <i>normal</i> to the rear mech fixing bolt hole axis in the derailleur hanger.<br />
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If you have trouble adjusting rear mech cable tension to get smooth shifting in both directions, or an otherwise sub-standard rear transmission, just take a quick look at the alignment of your rear mech pulleys and the sprockets. If they are not coplanar, then use this tool to fix it. In the past, I tried realigning by hand, and while it can improve things, the tool allows you to align accurately. Once that alignment is decent, the rear mech can do its thing properly. Suddenly, your transmission works beautifully. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji8ElcW8PUGwNyCzQaPq1qLMpu3X8fR7pXWKN27SfZRy-ulXvKjywadCkhGkohydh0YBKDnByZtkMB21g4pBC1IxMyINP7IwVGP5QZ69qu459xGukO7Emwn5VfjNBdwkS3_S8gs_Wp11M/s1600/DAG-2.2_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji8ElcW8PUGwNyCzQaPq1qLMpu3X8fR7pXWKN27SfZRy-ulXvKjywadCkhGkohydh0YBKDnByZtkMB21g4pBC1IxMyINP7IwVGP5QZ69qu459xGukO7Emwn5VfjNBdwkS3_S8gs_Wp11M/s320/DAG-2.2_001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Although it's a simple-looking tool, I can see that a lot of thought has gone into its design. There are various factors to consider in the design of such a tool:<br />
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1. Robustness and longevity. The lever needs to be stiff enough, and the attachment to the hanger strong enough. This is because the lever is used to manually bend the hanger. No problem here with the Park Tool. The lever is strong and the rotating bolt is a good tight fit in the heavy housing. Moreover, the threaded end bolt can be removed (it has an allen key socket in it) and replaced. Here's a photo of the main bolt pin removed (need to remove a grub screw):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiIZFAq2fM21onxb5aRzwVfEN9GyqTOTpVB5slL5ethN9XKxVSGoiyHJ5u5rFqQ5hzDU1ukF98i985QWLxmbxqf1aqnxWLtxI9mvqr9pSc3VEjrjIVQtOV-23n9RX51ZI7QneOURd-Pb4/s1600/IMG_20180428_123934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1541" data-original-width="1600" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiIZFAq2fM21onxb5aRzwVfEN9GyqTOTpVB5slL5ethN9XKxVSGoiyHJ5u5rFqQ5hzDU1ukF98i985QWLxmbxqf1aqnxWLtxI9mvqr9pSc3VEjrjIVQtOV-23n9RX51ZI7QneOURd-Pb4/s320/IMG_20180428_123934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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2. Must fit. Look at a bunch of bikes in a shop, and you'll see a variety of positions of the derailleur hanger bolt hole with respect to rear dropouts, wheel axle, etc. So, the tool has to be able to attach to all these types. I've had no issues with this so far, and I think this is because the part of the tool that houses the bolt is fairly narrow diameter.<br />
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3. Ability for the indicator to be moved in and out without losing the setting. The tool has to be used while on the bike (because the hanger is on the bike!). Therefore, the indicator has to be moveable to get around at least, the chain stays and then any other parts hanging about, such as racks, mudguard arms, or even the derailleur itself (if all you've done is unbolted it and let it hang free). The indicator on the tool achieves this with a small knob, and small O-rings to keep the setting as you move it in and out.<br />
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<h3>
Tips and Learnings</h3>
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1. What I've learned recently, is that even small improvements in hanger alignment can cause big improvements. These kinds of misalignment are not that easy to see with the eye alone, but the tool can detect it. I suppose this is because the indicator looks at the rim positions which is a long distance from the sprockets.<br />
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2. I put something on the wheel in the bottom dead centre position, e.g. the tyre valve. Throughout the testing and alignment process, I ensure that the valve remains in that spot.<br />
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3. Take off the rear mech. If the hanger is removable, unbolt it and clean it. Grease the bolts and refix it securely before you start the alignment procedure. Sometimes, the issue is not alignment, but rather hanger tightness!<br />
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3. CAREFULLY screw the tool into the mech hanger hole - really really really don't want to cross threads here!<br />
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4. The procedure I've used that has worked well starts with first using the indicator to look at the top and bottom of the wheel rim to work out which way the hanger is bent in or out from the wheel. (This requires sliding the indicator housing, because the rear mech hole is not in the wheel centre). Then look at the back of the wheel rim and front of the wheel rim (which requires maneuvering the indicator around the chainstay) to figure out which way the hanger is toed in or out from the wheel's plane.<br />
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5. Then, spend a few seconds (minutes?!) to visualize how the hanger is aligned with respect to the wheel in your mind BEFORE you bend anything.<br />
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6. Make the first bend. So far, I have gone for a horizontal and vertical approach: (1) with the lever horizontal to correct toe-in/out, and (2) with the lever vertical to correct push-in/pull-out. In other words, I get the alignment satisfactory with the lever vertical or horizontal, then get the alignment satisfactory in the other direction (lever horizontal or vertical).<br />
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7. I try to minimize the number of bend attempts, because metal fatigues! A couple of mm difference in the indicator positions at the rim doesn't seem to make much impact, so it doesn't seem worth bothering to get mm perfection. Remember that whatever the "gap" is on one side, you only have to bend the hanger <i>half</i> that amount to get it aligned.<br />
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8. After correcting both vertically and horizontally, I go back to 4 above and quickly recheck all is good and that the hanger plane is close to parallel to the wheel plane. <br />
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9. The knob on the indicator slider and the small O-rings on the indicator work fine. However, I've found that the O-rings will disintegrate over time. I need to get more of them, but at least O rings are easy to find online and cheap.<br />
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10. Clean and grease the main bolt pin (see photo above), or perhaps a drop of oil every now and then to keep the bearing smooth. A good idea to keep it easy to screw into the mech hanger hole.<br />
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Here's <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=114&v=zWe6Zbaz1uM">a video from Park Tool</a> of the thing in use.<br />
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Park Tool have done a super job with this tool and I recommend it highly. Just get a small bag of replacement O rings.Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-78662773216430193252016-06-18T16:22:00.000-07:002016-06-18T16:37:05.268-07:00Electronic Shifting: Di2 Road Bike BuildFinally, I've decided to take the plunge and build myself a road bike with Di2. Why? Three reasons:<br />
<ul>
<li>Easier. I acquired a frameset last year which I think will be easier to hook up with electronic shifting rather than cables. Furthermore, I cannot find suitable cable guides for both the drive side chainstay and the BB shell - which looks like this:</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpQfQmx6XomkidY9bKOGrKu8V_w2eCiM9njQ6dSLD-ayq7vUwZWFOZN9ry1kEEQJ-b8HFIOO50BP8fkOiGdrcyny4luXXM2pw6odu4B9C1DWn1b7Z6wHzCCGdzV1s3UDRgZXos_noFzx8/s1600/BBShell.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpQfQmx6XomkidY9bKOGrKu8V_w2eCiM9njQ6dSLD-ayq7vUwZWFOZN9ry1kEEQJ-b8HFIOO50BP8fkOiGdrcyny4luXXM2pw6odu4B9C1DWn1b7Z6wHzCCGdzV1s3UDRgZXos_noFzx8/s400/BBShell.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>Cheaper. I've worked out that I can do it for a few hundred quid less than it would cost to buy a ready made Di2 bike of equivalent quality. That's partly because Shimano Ultegra 6870 Di2 groupsets can be found for ca. £860 these days. </li>
<li>Curiosity! What's the fuss all about? What are they like and how do they perform over time? </li>
</ul>
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As you can see, none of these reasons are to do with any disillusionment with standard cable operated gears. </div>
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Hopefully, I'll do a better job than the chap who put this bike together:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4F5f3V7DMOFM_wQ5W-MCZYxPUVvG1vdGL189i1N2G8FXPABJ9EfnSEb7RWNOOEjZdpwKUfcBmMrhCmwe85MRuJvT0QP5JeXBlzbEGeKKdACJai4MvHVJixbnySL8r8HxXBbI_fgmXRQ/s1600/IMG_20160213_114330-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4F5f3V7DMOFM_wQ5W-MCZYxPUVvG1vdGL189i1N2G8FXPABJ9EfnSEb7RWNOOEjZdpwKUfcBmMrhCmwe85MRuJvT0QP5JeXBlzbEGeKKdACJai4MvHVJixbnySL8r8HxXBbI_fgmXRQ/s400/IMG_20160213_114330-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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So, watch this space, as I gather all the bits and undertake the project this summer. </div>
Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-22781777744437205032016-04-19T04:15:00.000-07:002016-04-19T04:15:21.150-07:00Date & Pecan bike food: Natural "Gel Sachets"!Take a succulent Mejdool date (see below in pictures). Cut part way through, remove the stone. Replace stone with one or two halves of a pecan nut. Press it closed and wrap in grease proof paper like a sweet. Snip one end, to make it easier to unwrap and eat while riding. Fill yer jersey pockets, but go easy there - each one has about 80 Calories (if you use two pecan halves).<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdG1RpxtkDOttpG23fqD0ZK0d9mwHe5iR_GEMBMNfjg2fAJao0MqXZZFnzmObObLvTC5rT5GiFg6LkHzuAZ20KyEbfCuI9QerixVld1Rgb7mboXUzSnlNdRmIrXB4RW-oz0UMdefj3jk/s1600/IMG_20160405_182526%257E2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdG1RpxtkDOttpG23fqD0ZK0d9mwHe5iR_GEMBMNfjg2fAJao0MqXZZFnzmObObLvTC5rT5GiFg6LkHzuAZ20KyEbfCuI9QerixVld1Rgb7mboXUzSnlNdRmIrXB4RW-oz0UMdefj3jk/s320/IMG_20160405_182526%257E2.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWL6xSpEblgfmky5FNCGVKUuv_WFCl1-n7olrnMRsh6vF5HMwj9R7Er9Wa8USUNn8NWQnD5W9XVuaAUWjTOV_uk_tX1MdGp5Xl94LAo4GUDTMrn4TaGSyJw_w9radgPfHo6RgqO9UMXA/s1600/IMG_20160405_182801%257E2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijWL6xSpEblgfmky5FNCGVKUuv_WFCl1-n7olrnMRsh6vF5HMwj9R7Er9Wa8USUNn8NWQnD5W9XVuaAUWjTOV_uk_tX1MdGp5Xl94LAo4GUDTMrn4TaGSyJw_w9radgPfHo6RgqO9UMXA/s320/IMG_20160405_182801%257E2.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-PohW8JnZ3f3BVTYVt4iiLR0WcRjP5uCvSK_Q_WvJrPCSBxlhXlxhVTqMEYOYsxdjXcK8gIrfLUuKjWPLZ_q2ms6KrVtCdCrCM8BnQPt2iFQSU5CY4CD-KofFkBoG9y-W4DZRxNh0dE8/s1600/IMG_20160405_182815%257E2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-PohW8JnZ3f3BVTYVt4iiLR0WcRjP5uCvSK_Q_WvJrPCSBxlhXlxhVTqMEYOYsxdjXcK8gIrfLUuKjWPLZ_q2ms6KrVtCdCrCM8BnQPt2iFQSU5CY4CD-KofFkBoG9y-W4DZRxNh0dE8/s320/IMG_20160405_182815%257E2.jpg" width="320" /></a>Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-26981653642915752122014-08-16T06:18:00.001-07:002018-11-24T08:38:25.607-08:00The best way to seal Cyclocross Tyres? SeamSure v SeamGrip v Copydex<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZcL8PGJ8z-eLZI4bbuP7nXy6b3FI9ue480KJnMSpGaLhd7ys5EZZIJChQuGt8n77e1Ov7pCbMmTkdi8jf42RuIb97sT-ZwEOicdP9J8GlvMzBrFvsaeQWEeO_HKMhu4AwmynB0sY8uA/s1600/_20140815_234400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZcL8PGJ8z-eLZI4bbuP7nXy6b3FI9ue480KJnMSpGaLhd7ys5EZZIJChQuGt8n77e1Ov7pCbMmTkdi8jf42RuIb97sT-ZwEOicdP9J8GlvMzBrFvsaeQWEeO_HKMhu4AwmynB0sY8uA/s1600/_20140815_234400.JPG" width="210" /></a></div>
I may have finally found the best way to seal quality CX tyres like Challenge open tubular (clinchers). In a <a href="http://workingoncycles.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/challenge-tyres-sealing-side-walls.html">previous post</a>, I compared Copydex glue with SeamGrip. Both work, but Copydex peels after a while and the SeamGrip is really gloopy and messy to apply. Water based SeamSure is way easier to apply:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijv4xyEwzE6TNyV6IBYVLldb4yj5r5FAegOILgMUIuwxzgtKjHAM8bCuGScTeZOBU_hp-1sctQ2HfHqTDdRMPVKNSIRmDKyiaqqxYZMOvHoZEcx-xdPjGYOVf3BdUgaCAwjP8-2KylSzo/s1600/_20140815_234325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijv4xyEwzE6TNyV6IBYVLldb4yj5r5FAegOILgMUIuwxzgtKjHAM8bCuGScTeZOBU_hp-1sctQ2HfHqTDdRMPVKNSIRmDKyiaqqxYZMOvHoZEcx-xdPjGYOVf3BdUgaCAwjP8-2KylSzo/s1600/_20140815_234325.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
It's a milky solution that is dead easy to brush on to the sidewalls of the tyres. Another easy way is to smear it on with gloved finger. A bonus is that you can wash up with warm water and soap. It actually comes in a bottle with an integrated brush, but I didn't bother with that, and instead used a better quality half inch wide paintbrush.<br />
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According to the package literature:<br />
<i>"Seam Sure is a fast drying water based urethane formula designed for sealing sewn seams on synthetic fabrics and breathable laminates. Seam Sure dries to a clear, flexible, long lasting film with a nearly invisible, non-gloss finish. Seam Sure is washable, dry-cleanable and freeze/thaw stable". </i><br />
Now doesn't that sound perfect for CX tyres?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGqT9_8N07lLJL6_YI91eXg2AhZyC0nQCwqB5TXBvUs4vMFfr1mfoTo6G8Yl5VpdaUGg4V7lGVNVx6Vpjs8cMkf_mGn_PeTf7PVxsD5Z8OH46ZHh393JqRNBaUzRTUhdRnTl1zi15K4Q/s1600/_20140815_234529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGqT9_8N07lLJL6_YI91eXg2AhZyC0nQCwqB5TXBvUs4vMFfr1mfoTo6G8Yl5VpdaUGg4V7lGVNVx6Vpjs8cMkf_mGn_PeTf7PVxsD5Z8OH46ZHh393JqRNBaUzRTUhdRnTl1zi15K4Q/s1600/_20140815_234529.JPG" width="306" /></a></div>
Amazingly easy to apply and it does indeed dry almost invisible, with a matt finish. The only question then is how will it survive the cyclocross season? I will find out over the next months and let you know.Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-68203292911799415212014-07-04T11:45:00.003-07:002014-07-30T04:32:50.412-07:00Giant Defy Mudguards or "Fenders", Review <div style="text-align: justify;">
Giant's hugely popular Defy range of road bikes have mudguard eyelets front and rear. However, clearance under the brake calipers is tight. Giant produce mudguards (finders in English(US)) for the Defy, Avail, Rapid and Dash frames. However, I've heard people, even shop mechanics, say that these don't fit on a Large Defy frame. This post is about my attempt to fit them and I'll give my opinion at the end. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0_-T92C-edObAIUXgajaLe1QqZOc_5kccTFacaFfnTGzV7uKGn5yEqPChsqAUYEXvAXeAaHdv3vHwAmuJrcafkqqDeOgZ1osSiwigs1SgjgWh9tL1NaUXufp32roZQDsX8ToEd6NZSjo/s1600/GIANT_DEFY_FENDERS_BLACK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0_-T92C-edObAIUXgajaLe1QqZOc_5kccTFacaFfnTGzV7uKGn5yEqPChsqAUYEXvAXeAaHdv3vHwAmuJrcafkqqDeOgZ1osSiwigs1SgjgWh9tL1NaUXufp32roZQDsX8ToEd6NZSjo/s1600/GIANT_DEFY_FENDERS_BLACK.jpg" height="245" width="400" /></a></div>
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Those are stainless steel braces that go round the brake caliper area. They are 700c x 35mm. My Large size Defy 4 has 700x25mm tyres. The frame does not have a chainstay bridge, but it does have a hole in the seat tube (behind the bottle mount area) to mount a mudguard. However, the slot in the forward portion of the rear mudguard (at right in the photo above) does not reach this hole. So, the first thing is to test fit it in position, mark the position for a new hole and drill it like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvs2M5TkU7Q7vwlXQdIxvaodILwyUSDqW9zJFlFhoEy56nUIF4t7tNEWm-mzvt6Hh7dxGLEFj0CsH_CDMl29s5TAw9obHxXdcKfIT5PEqY6vdFc8uzdaYGD4hNb9f7J_u6r8pjOoDLNE0/s1600/_20140704_190114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvs2M5TkU7Q7vwlXQdIxvaodILwyUSDqW9zJFlFhoEy56nUIF4t7tNEWm-mzvt6Hh7dxGLEFj0CsH_CDMl29s5TAw9obHxXdcKfIT5PEqY6vdFc8uzdaYGD4hNb9f7J_u6r8pjOoDLNE0/s1600/_20140704_190114.JPG" height="400" width="378" /></a></div>
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Then I put some electrical tape over the slot (no need to allow the muck through!):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1tdUslQyfKl3e63SUPCzUsfUVnUrPXdWF2TBCcgQm6JcIahy3SptSPeqv5T8ovB4yiauPwjwS9hze_GxoNXpSmhhYkOgt3zUI1lUR6_l2ogk1U-bz3PlOKkzprYNl8FX4RY03jBHORV4/s1600/_20140704_192352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1tdUslQyfKl3e63SUPCzUsfUVnUrPXdWF2TBCcgQm6JcIahy3SptSPeqv5T8ovB4yiauPwjwS9hze_GxoNXpSmhhYkOgt3zUI1lUR6_l2ogk1U-bz3PlOKkzprYNl8FX4RY03jBHORV4/s1600/_20140704_192352.JPG" height="400" width="308" /></a></div>
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That's the only modification required. The whole gubbins then attaches as normal, which is totally straightforward. I decided to use a rubber washer on the inside (made of inner tube) to prevent cracking the plastic as I tightened the bolt and to help with vibration:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDndnS7ppBpigFzF_ChenCwaN_3cUJP0reK4Qr53ZdDNPXJwpze41do2QKrlknjRsasVmvTrggThuw8y5KJpaOxrlwkwxFQLaahxjkVEKxxq7y4lIzyHH-d7T0eGHQDzMQhzveV5Gaybw/s1600/_20140704_190205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDndnS7ppBpigFzF_ChenCwaN_3cUJP0reK4Qr53ZdDNPXJwpze41do2QKrlknjRsasVmvTrggThuw8y5KJpaOxrlwkwxFQLaahxjkVEKxxq7y4lIzyHH-d7T0eGHQDzMQhzveV5Gaybw/s1600/_20140704_190205.JPG" height="400" width="318" /></a></div>
From the other side, here is the rubber bung (grommet) that the bolt goes through before tightening into the seat tube hole:<br />
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Very sensible design. Here is the rear mudguard all fitted. It's very easy to line up and keep off the tyre:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKr5wvanvUl4tHkYAcbVTi2UJZtaA34A0xAwafA4R8kLazTqLbrBsm3GYLTPE9msrKaQ6nBvV9tESebCPqdxzQZ4Psz3s_InztzWTcoA6ylBBUJ-EpOzXlYM1vrl1RCbxYq6wbvhgvJNs/s1600/_20140704_185954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKr5wvanvUl4tHkYAcbVTi2UJZtaA34A0xAwafA4R8kLazTqLbrBsm3GYLTPE9msrKaQ6nBvV9tESebCPqdxzQZ4Psz3s_InztzWTcoA6ylBBUJ-EpOzXlYM1vrl1RCbxYq6wbvhgvJNs/s1600/_20140704_185954.JPG" height="307" width="400" /></a></div>
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The front guard posed no issues at all. Here's the bike with the mudguards fitted. I think the "fenders" look quite neat:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpRkh10frDgO_9iFzyo-PQ5fvIUh1M9pooCJkMoFyCSc7Id8_B527MkPmfrtZ68_9Dw13t7-0Xhn8mGSWEEdhnLrEJCQCwZzY4XmupjFAT60ZY_nqSujQtEkxivhob4tnFvuVyirSNZE/s1600/_20140704_173906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpRkh10frDgO_9iFzyo-PQ5fvIUh1M9pooCJkMoFyCSc7Id8_B527MkPmfrtZ68_9Dw13t7-0Xhn8mGSWEEdhnLrEJCQCwZzY4XmupjFAT60ZY_nqSujQtEkxivhob4tnFvuVyirSNZE/s1600/_20140704_173906.JPG" height="438" width="640" /></a></div>
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All in all, they look and feel like good quality items and there seems to be nothing on them that rusts. They are very low profile and coverage is better than SKS Raceblades. The Giant mudguards seem more sturdy than Crud Road Racer Mark 2's, maintain clearance from the tyres very nicely, and they don't have any brushy things, as on the Crud's, to contact the rims. However, they have traditional wire mounting rods, unlike the Cruds or SKS which have break off parts for safety. They provide a great solution to turn your road bike into a commuter or winter bike. It is possible that they would fit other road bikes too, but you'd need some kind of mod to attach the rear one to the seat tube. Time will tell how long they last, but so far so good. Oh, and in my view, it's not right to say that they don't fit on a Large Defy frame. Sure, one needs to drill a hole in them, but that's easy. Overall, I rate them very highly: 4 Stars out of 5 (would be higher if the arms were the break off type).</div>
Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-76379765508139455112014-03-25T09:11:00.001-07:002014-03-25T09:28:15.387-07:00Climbing Mount Hamilton, California: Cycling from Alum Rock to Lick Observatory<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbfCLqXsb72A8mTkwNIVq-ShepFyDvxHNGxLGR3BRTZxGg7v581xwTDw0LMEhzpXdhowrrgVG-NjwmePsTYv4uKNKD1pgtuddNC7HwhCHfCCFV2ECXdtMN6Pi1eXjAdJNltJX5qasEEaQ/s1600/rainbowudc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbfCLqXsb72A8mTkwNIVq-ShepFyDvxHNGxLGR3BRTZxGg7v581xwTDw0LMEhzpXdhowrrgVG-NjwmePsTYv4uKNKD1pgtuddNC7HwhCHfCCFV2ECXdtMN6Pi1eXjAdJNltJX5qasEEaQ/s1600/rainbowudc.jpg" height="312" width="400" /></a></div>
When I saw this rainbow in the morning, I knew it was going to be a great day. The UnDiscovered Country Tours staff yogi kindly modelled it for me. This was where I was going to pick up my rental bike:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcLwo3VS4_ZxRd6BeRcXysyff_N6UiKIdomNzoNGPshVdrSjUSl7OvE9NPcPFZw3YXe0IB-iUP8rpXA0JIp21-qIAGxV7NE_jSFnI0RMkFg9l2ZXv0fyopJYY8PyOWmVEPXvsXGUEPdDk/s1600/UDC_Allottas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcLwo3VS4_ZxRd6BeRcXysyff_N6UiKIdomNzoNGPshVdrSjUSl7OvE9NPcPFZw3YXe0IB-iUP8rpXA0JIp21-qIAGxV7NE_jSFnI0RMkFg9l2ZXv0fyopJYY8PyOWmVEPXvsXGUEPdDk/s1600/UDC_Allottas.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
I have to say that UDC was fantastic and I heartily recommend them. The staff are knowledgeable, helpful and they have a great stock of bikes at reasonable rental prices. Terry Morse (he's not in the photo below, but I think that's his wife on the left) had huge detailed knowledge of Mt. Hamilton and he ensured that I had everything I needed, especially as it was raining! Btw, Alotta's sandwich shop on the left above is excellent and ideal to refuel after the ride - they do a great cheese and veggie sandwich on house baked bread...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-oFYJ9LSMFvEaDGr1Ph2ArdhPsO5EvNfy4686FvXPBc0DD98lBJ5mZbSGAuW6mu7lSoiCyVA4nsBA4MQJ04DjWgWQjEheO39gZ1jeT339JU-Sy-ipAL2a5HAKlpI_o7zbm8WUCAMLKBs/s1600/Lady+n+Mech+in+UDC+shop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-oFYJ9LSMFvEaDGr1Ph2ArdhPsO5EvNfy4686FvXPBc0DD98lBJ5mZbSGAuW6mu7lSoiCyVA4nsBA4MQJ04DjWgWQjEheO39gZ1jeT339JU-Sy-ipAL2a5HAKlpI_o7zbm8WUCAMLKBs/s1600/Lady+n+Mech+in+UDC+shop.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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UDC's wisdom was that I should park at the mall on Mckee and Toyon in San Jose, rather than Alum Rock on the roadside (apparently there had been break-ins to cars there in the past). Advice that I happily accepted. So, after jumping on the bike - thankfully, the rain had stopped - I headed from the mall car park up Mckee and this is the entrance to the 130, Mt Hamilton Road:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBdeiZsy_99jWk5c_ifHG64anLlldvT3dlAXXMRwtAlepcHJY2RkSOlBRCAEotPc76zxNJnCelufi88bzpkDgiXZINvsrB6aMe07lC-OWiVVxfr5F48qPBrgodxfUsvJTrYqxOA_3iZuA/s1600/Start+of+Mt+Ham+Rd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBdeiZsy_99jWk5c_ifHG64anLlldvT3dlAXXMRwtAlepcHJY2RkSOlBRCAEotPc76zxNJnCelufi88bzpkDgiXZINvsrB6aMe07lC-OWiVVxfr5F48qPBrgodxfUsvJTrYqxOA_3iZuA/s1600/Start+of+Mt+Ham+Rd.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Ahead of me, about 19 miles of climbing. Actually, there are two small descents that break it up into three sections of climbing. Inhaling my trepidation, I set off up the hill at a steady pace. I wanted to enjoy this, not smash myself!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnzHRmdQLpmQPSFnc5pGST7eBtZXVYtzEr0GjJanW8Q_UQDeJ3djIWyWXjGKh3wqskZNc831rSilRpZAZ9Xu1sOAEA5zuAjIhZg7MKcntJIspcIj3rjMCKnbXGsNtCBMjES-oDeM8CR0w/s1600/IMG_20140301_105518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnzHRmdQLpmQPSFnc5pGST7eBtZXVYtzEr0GjJanW8Q_UQDeJ3djIWyWXjGKh3wqskZNc831rSilRpZAZ9Xu1sOAEA5zuAjIhZg7MKcntJIspcIj3rjMCKnbXGsNtCBMjES-oDeM8CR0w/s1600/IMG_20140301_105518.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Even on the lower slopes, the views are great. The rental bike was a Giant TCR Advanced. Since it had been raining, I'd kitted out the saddle with a makeshift mudguard (fender to US readers):</div>
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A simple affair - a cut away water bottle secured with rubber bands on the saddle pack. That keeps the light and more importantly my backside dry! I found the Fizik Arione saddle comfy, and I was really pleased to note that UDC ensure that it is accurately set level, which is what Fizik recommend, afaik. </div>
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Watch out for the wildlife as you climb. There's not much road traffic, but sometimes what there is can be a bit quick, like a motorbike or sports car. The road has sweeping bends on the lower slopes, still spectacular:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35VKz3KaXdnQ12jA2lbjeYg00Euw9w219ic_LAWoLfbGC_W94wEW4t6rMshwK7RvnvtWRNnPdsOJ4uOJb2DL0O6Vm3HIcYj8f2OhthnnJiI9Dj8s3jioi2zc0ePeDQEjT_9zobaNtqq8/s1600/bend+with+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35VKz3KaXdnQ12jA2lbjeYg00Euw9w219ic_LAWoLfbGC_W94wEW4t6rMshwK7RvnvtWRNnPdsOJ4uOJb2DL0O6Vm3HIcYj8f2OhthnnJiI9Dj8s3jioi2zc0ePeDQEjT_9zobaNtqq8/s1600/bend+with+view.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then near the first small descent, you get a glimpse of Lick Observatory in the distance on the peak. You can barely see the whitish domes on the peak in the photo below. At this point, I realised just how long the road is and could understand the height. It's 1283m, higher than Mt. Snowdon in Wales, and a tad lower than Ben Nevis in Scotland. It must have been an incredible building effort in the 1880s, with horses, I guess pulling building materials and glass scopes up there. However, the constructors were resourceful - they found clay and water near the top and fired the bricks at a site about a mile from the summit. A great description of the construction is <a href="http://collections.ucolick.org/archives_on_line/bldg_the_obs.html">here</a>.</div>
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Then you go past Grant Country Park, and the view back over the valley is lovely. Magical country mansion and a lake there too: </div>
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Saw these curious balls on the oak trees out there. I think they are "oak apples" created by Gall wasps (it's an incubation environment for their "wasplings" to hatch from). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvEAaCGhQARhKrFU29ZbirnG9mutEhSLkNoN5FjTpZhuhzKuoUQfypaKxKTUH-BosD2KsZTeQIcnMP6CwhjyZStwqnilnRqsvV98bV4htcnQ4TpkPayzbns9nEfOe_Pb5Uhyphenhyphenca0jKQsw/s1600/Bolls+on+trees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvEAaCGhQARhKrFU29ZbirnG9mutEhSLkNoN5FjTpZhuhzKuoUQfypaKxKTUH-BosD2KsZTeQIcnMP6CwhjyZStwqnilnRqsvV98bV4htcnQ4TpkPayzbns9nEfOe_Pb5Uhyphenhyphenca0jKQsw/s1600/Bolls+on+trees.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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The road starts to get a tad more winding and windy from here. Historically, this road has been used as a descent in the Tour of California. This year, it's going to be an ascent for the first time, I think. Can't wait for Wiggins et al to hammer it up here!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVlhHFWVGp-6wiBh4whMRF1Va_QQZ9kaoH4Ak006K1rG3VnY6sQChI2xIPMZOs2vF_NIg68XrqGIVyX7FBbkgpLovGtf-FSDHEjHIjUvj4F0nG1tOSOmFh_bMb9ncusLupI5D-7Odg9s/s1600/bike+n+road+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVlhHFWVGp-6wiBh4whMRF1Va_QQZ9kaoH4Ak006K1rG3VnY6sQChI2xIPMZOs2vF_NIg68XrqGIVyX7FBbkgpLovGtf-FSDHEjHIjUvj4F0nG1tOSOmFh_bMb9ncusLupI5D-7Odg9s/s1600/bike+n+road+view.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's a fabulous view, but it will be behind the ToC peloton! I'm sure the TV cameras will do it justice though. I wonder what the constructors of the observatory would have thought about a bike race coming up the mountain!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBozWm9doKQgkLnUNjkDo_sezkYm-hyBkC2SGkRUjJzYEQofABqWFyh-IsHDfVPkYCzNrUQuJaLx6jVmskcR2odbQWabYuAlrTRs3TP_VLBbX11chLNN6OrJtrk-RjOicHActZxMGpKNk/s1600/IMG_20140301_114328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBozWm9doKQgkLnUNjkDo_sezkYm-hyBkC2SGkRUjJzYEQofABqWFyh-IsHDfVPkYCzNrUQuJaLx6jVmskcR2odbQWabYuAlrTRs3TP_VLBbX11chLNN6OrJtrk-RjOicHActZxMGpKNk/s1600/IMG_20140301_114328.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Then you get another glimpse of the observatory, around where the road descends for the second time. Funny that you get to see the summit whenever you are travelling downwards! The domes are tantalisingly always there...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGpFwseZGzDhWUqigVwDrhrO2Pv4Y2Bv2se5jMPXZah-ApDQdP96qGx6ENifTDRRLU6AhCkQU1Da734KLl-9XOmSP3EkOQLuWZJC0dojE4GbZAM9KUzuU5scVgW1K0zUApSftLL5Vf3H4/s1600/Second+sight+of+observatory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGpFwseZGzDhWUqigVwDrhrO2Pv4Y2Bv2se5jMPXZah-ApDQdP96qGx6ENifTDRRLU6AhCkQU1Da734KLl-9XOmSP3EkOQLuWZJC0dojE4GbZAM9KUzuU5scVgW1K0zUApSftLL5Vf3H4/s1600/Second+sight+of+observatory.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is an important landmark, as the road reaches the bottom of the second descent, there's a river, Smith Creek, and the bridge going over it is concreted (not visible in the photo, but to the left of the road sign):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil943VQRItZnO17Y-ceRdAxkMNTU0k6egEeDud_nMPmWd-yCG6Fz4VBe4vuRMiGFwhct6W-GPyANqNObOXFHlKJuL5x8I_K2WHuDEeNt8e6lV_rp8L-4vZTtfPTVAcP4sGqL5mIDpn6PM/s1600/Sign+at+bottom+of+second+descent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil943VQRItZnO17Y-ceRdAxkMNTU0k6egEeDud_nMPmWd-yCG6Fz4VBe4vuRMiGFwhct6W-GPyANqNObOXFHlKJuL5x8I_K2WHuDEeNt8e6lV_rp8L-4vZTtfPTVAcP4sGqL5mIDpn6PM/s1600/Sign+at+bottom+of+second+descent.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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After Smith Creek, the road gets a bit steeper and more winding. You see the 5 miles to go sign, but don't let it fool you - there's still a lot of climbing to do!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZq2OXTZjX00DhazTWUJD9oGd2RE3s1dvvI0PqKoTyZ7Kb92zLytpvNVUru4LxgiKaxnwn6cS-2V6Y5zHqH1USwAdOEKqWrNp4GJEYYpFaxsBMhGjNmGv594_MDO8oQlcFrcgwJSTgJ4/s1600/lick+5+miles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZq2OXTZjX00DhazTWUJD9oGd2RE3s1dvvI0PqKoTyZ7Kb92zLytpvNVUru4LxgiKaxnwn6cS-2V6Y5zHqH1USwAdOEKqWrNp4GJEYYpFaxsBMhGjNmGv594_MDO8oQlcFrcgwJSTgJ4/s1600/lick+5+miles.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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It was a few miles up from here where they found the clay deposit from which they made the bricks for the observatory. Speaking of which, you see it again, now much closer and you get an impression of how the road switchbacks one way then another, to the summit. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWbHkbzx33k080dv2LRGcav9BidmqBHHHqfwjCqlwPD7G_r66D8j4ZDz99oBAcsHw17AqcSEOPSbJWFkOz3_wf0LlaVRSEl5e2jnBRfxO5q6nuKMO40s52K0kloPtJisP7VyS9zpuUcIA/s1600/Third+view+of+observatory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWbHkbzx33k080dv2LRGcav9BidmqBHHHqfwjCqlwPD7G_r66D8j4ZDz99oBAcsHw17AqcSEOPSbJWFkOz3_wf0LlaVRSEl5e2jnBRfxO5q6nuKMO40s52K0kloPtJisP7VyS9zpuUcIA/s1600/Third+view+of+observatory.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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However, once again, don't underestimate how much climbing remains! The temperature started to fall from about here too. A closeup of the observatory in the mist. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdIrGmVI9CaqsGl5DAC0gpp5T_DWjGQglJ9MhQo5-D8eYp6c6YV7sph2LFLUsZ1i_z3wMzTn-OKU-vvalDH6Zqyc0V8UYOocMVcRfiqsFPcQL1ZEBi1rwsgUu7y0MTsoi_Ob4KI-khlY/s1600/observatory+in+mist.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdIrGmVI9CaqsGl5DAC0gpp5T_DWjGQglJ9MhQo5-D8eYp6c6YV7sph2LFLUsZ1i_z3wMzTn-OKU-vvalDH6Zqyc0V8UYOocMVcRfiqsFPcQL1ZEBi1rwsgUu7y0MTsoi_Ob4KI-khlY/s1600/observatory+in+mist.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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A load of hairpin turns later, eventually, you get to the junction which marks the entrance to the Lick Observatory. There's this roadsign there, which is fairly iconic:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAL59scV4T4MwtP_iHnaScIInCVEXZu_rhHxEg-YcTgEZ9gJ8X_DZ0xlisHzMKay7RakAF54ii6v4peCeL5-6ARDnhkVseNmTajRbTTJ6fJPjG-IgFdSEA9j-ehQKqOvMrGfMqLu2RF_o/s1600/SanJose+Livermore+Sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAL59scV4T4MwtP_iHnaScIInCVEXZu_rhHxEg-YcTgEZ9gJ8X_DZ0xlisHzMKay7RakAF54ii6v4peCeL5-6ARDnhkVseNmTajRbTTJ6fJPjG-IgFdSEA9j-ehQKqOvMrGfMqLu2RF_o/s1600/SanJose+Livermore+Sign.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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At the Tour, they will carry on in the Livermore direction, the descent is pretty steep, I hear, and then they'll tackle Mount Diablo as a summit finish for Stage 3. What a way to make a living! Anyway, for me, it was pretty much over, so the rest of this blog will be of photos taken around near the summit. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3s2m3Nj7v3b3xRoZT09wm1E3kUtyibmbQaN2d0ZTBFISdEGDwwDEHABqHer0CsaQirVXdywLPKZxsjYFD9c164pROwQeXTr1WGmwtNP4-gWccBRHclC_6aXMG8FkQHhgRlIxVfksaYxI/s1600/Entrance+house.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3s2m3Nj7v3b3xRoZT09wm1E3kUtyibmbQaN2d0ZTBFISdEGDwwDEHABqHer0CsaQirVXdywLPKZxsjYFD9c164pROwQeXTr1WGmwtNP4-gWccBRHclC_6aXMG8FkQHhgRlIxVfksaYxI/s1600/Entrance+house.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above, is the house which is opposite the San Jose-Livermore roadsign. It was the old dining hall. To the left is Livermore and the 3m telescope. To the right is an entrance road to the Visitor Centre and as you go up it, you can see the main dome to your right. Yes, just for a sense of scale, that's a person looking through a terrestrial telescope:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGZNOcu3Nrkedsr41i_iWMQKDwstHUxJtMujAUTHd4wmA4ol9jOrXT6l-OYjxqCip2Bl5sewn8uU4gAUMXGMADbnUvhH6txuII0Q1_o11-_c3UpSRLMdVq71jXxm7B06kUWaDUInkt7uU/s1600/Dome+as+you+go+up+entrance+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGZNOcu3Nrkedsr41i_iWMQKDwstHUxJtMujAUTHd4wmA4ol9jOrXT6l-OYjxqCip2Bl5sewn8uU4gAUMXGMADbnUvhH6txuII0Q1_o11-_c3UpSRLMdVq71jXxm7B06kUWaDUInkt7uU/s1600/Dome+as+you+go+up+entrance+road.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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I turned out to be lucky on the weather side. It could have been raining up here, with no visibility. Of course, this place is usually clear overhead, so I guess my cloudy photos are fairly rare. The dome (above and below) shelters the Great Lick Refractor sporting a huge 36" lens (couplet I think, one of which broke on the journey up here in the 1880s). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB6kiYJZ4LtQy9DJEDJqZF9HeW3ar85qjq5uyOb2Cp4qpecJoIKMFY91q7DP_cyEZPE7_Xyb70lVWrS6ajrjz7YWp_i4D2Yr_k53P3oVOkB0CZiy8EJNq2QyqWEJ-Kq1vO72aPwtxscoA/s1600/Dome+as+you+go+by+on+the+entrance+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB6kiYJZ4LtQy9DJEDJqZF9HeW3ar85qjq5uyOb2Cp4qpecJoIKMFY91q7DP_cyEZPE7_Xyb70lVWrS6ajrjz7YWp_i4D2Yr_k53P3oVOkB0CZiy8EJNq2QyqWEJ-Kq1vO72aPwtxscoA/s1600/Dome+as+you+go+by+on+the+entrance+road.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Below, the main entrance to the Visitor Centre, and yes, another cyclist. This climb is very popular with the cycling community and understandably so. I think the dome in the background houses the 40" reflector. Amazing place. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPJEG-IVulC9SgmwUO-a8yV1p8h9frVgXgqM48LXDTZVFZJqAMkHfngGsiaV6mQzVrKy06ZQZNHr9BX5jLeqRLcSCkeVbJaEOvXrnIgoWMUAsFKDa2oUXkh3ml-SILoGkOQa4NjRoyNWc/s1600/Observatory+main+from+entrance+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPJEG-IVulC9SgmwUO-a8yV1p8h9frVgXgqM48LXDTZVFZJqAMkHfngGsiaV6mQzVrKy06ZQZNHr9BX5jLeqRLcSCkeVbJaEOvXrnIgoWMUAsFKDa2oUXkh3ml-SILoGkOQa4NjRoyNWc/s1600/Observatory+main+from+entrance+road.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Looking back the way I just came, down the entrance road towards the old dining hall and the 3m telescope:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig25YcsDRlmpG2G8jAxr0QSNgJKSXBSm1yJPI1kUmO19Wcr27FBNOK7EWmhAm2K98guGYLTt0O-rJ3qFFoNdCN25NNuq-h9ynpOI0Ks0RjLWK2mIsoZMzET4CiIE7-KrqydngAiLcqqAQ/s1600/IMG_20140301_130738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig25YcsDRlmpG2G8jAxr0QSNgJKSXBSm1yJPI1kUmO19Wcr27FBNOK7EWmhAm2K98guGYLTt0O-rJ3qFFoNdCN25NNuq-h9ynpOI0Ks0RjLWK2mIsoZMzET4CiIE7-KrqydngAiLcqqAQ/s1600/IMG_20140301_130738.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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From the position where I took the above photo, looking out over the guard rail you see this other smaller dome. I think this dome housed the Crossley 36" Reflector. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYkUVopuG5wmw7U9cfJn5cfZ-JI-ELIOWT5QCyIzKlzMscGxcvPxX4gNvOsF-Bab0AoK2ByFcykpNBvoE6O2fxVWisx76iGm_lI5aP1UpPX8v9dYCmLN13u1IUyEKxGFGrZJmP9uJ2xE/s1600/Lower+observatory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYkUVopuG5wmw7U9cfJn5cfZ-JI-ELIOWT5QCyIzKlzMscGxcvPxX4gNvOsF-Bab0AoK2ByFcykpNBvoE6O2fxVWisx76iGm_lI5aP1UpPX8v9dYCmLN13u1IUyEKxGFGrZJmP9uJ2xE/s1600/Lower+observatory.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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A photo of a map of the Lick Observatory site that's on display on the noticeboard in the Vistor Centre. For some reason south is upwards... I don't think the above old Crossley telescope dome is shown on the map below, but if it was, it would be at top right. But you can see the 3m 120" Shane reflector dome on the road to Livermore and the old dining hall. More info on the telescopes <a href="http://www.ucolick.org/public/telescopes/36-inch.html">here</a>. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_w32mIpSzsg5YlVWgM96HKzOsHUmoPayft17vqq4ge3zNmLER3APQLAmGDaagRw1d2rGMwd1iZ7SFetFRtLWfUbi9XEq6EqnAX4btdDdDPOy160CyPCpOeMy6-2yAlN04kRKfTK18bEQ/s1600/Map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_w32mIpSzsg5YlVWgM96HKzOsHUmoPayft17vqq4ge3zNmLER3APQLAmGDaagRw1d2rGMwd1iZ7SFetFRtLWfUbi9XEq6EqnAX4btdDdDPOy160CyPCpOeMy6-2yAlN04kRKfTK18bEQ/s1600/Map.jpg" height="285" width="400" /></a></div>
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There's a bike rack around the side of the Visitor's Centre, and the doors are usually open (8am to 5pm daily according to the map above). Sadly, there's nothing like a cafe inside. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjjwq2-6sKdVtCM5rtxXVcvXVgtz5Ibtx5W7NDAiP9XzsEnNIpW6t-2j5kAxVcv6LIEBqxg_fHwE3VL7ZEYC0xQin8xwQWGowzAaKKNQ5kd_ApGusaQq7t7s0dZW4Ktew_IFz7OpRtKPI/s1600/Bike+rack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjjwq2-6sKdVtCM5rtxXVcvXVgtz5Ibtx5W7NDAiP9XzsEnNIpW6t-2j5kAxVcv6LIEBqxg_fHwE3VL7ZEYC0xQin8xwQWGowzAaKKNQ5kd_ApGusaQq7t7s0dZW4Ktew_IFz7OpRtKPI/s1600/Bike+rack.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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However, at least there are some vending machines, a water fountain and a toilet. All the important stuff is catered for!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1kNA9CYBnzd1YVGjS1ZBUBfsvIz7jASY9zU2bpSmGaoJJNOcX2sXPTIUCu4GW_4NxCyyzUGlIn0PlV05pTX0s2OJFS1zgx8OgoClau0qnOhgbJQWdjNT0RKT38fVbIhkFDT0mDvHcWpc/s1600/Vending+machines+and+water+fountain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1kNA9CYBnzd1YVGjS1ZBUBfsvIz7jASY9zU2bpSmGaoJJNOcX2sXPTIUCu4GW_4NxCyyzUGlIn0PlV05pTX0s2OJFS1zgx8OgoClau0qnOhgbJQWdjNT0RKT38fVbIhkFDT0mDvHcWpc/s1600/Vending+machines+and+water+fountain.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Walking through, there's a terrace, which would be lovely for a group of riders and when it's very windy. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMrEDcUeilFJJYpFaB28btP683uZBEndetMvTT44i50J6rCwF-QMpwnIbv1zBcTGWAxKyxir9wR9kcGJhkaSGQSBA13-VsN5EEfzqkIY3mv_g0dyFDDed8IvnzTof9w-kTdpIxOmT0kAg/s1600/Patio+Observatory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMrEDcUeilFJJYpFaB28btP683uZBEndetMvTT44i50J6rCwF-QMpwnIbv1zBcTGWAxKyxir9wR9kcGJhkaSGQSBA13-VsN5EEfzqkIY3mv_g0dyFDDed8IvnzTof9w-kTdpIxOmT0kAg/s1600/Patio+Observatory.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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The views from the top are spectacular and well worth the hard effort of climbing. So this is looking out with your back to the Visitor Centre: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumT228iJtylS27xYSt14jZu5CKUUCcyIzpCdEXnj-7IuslrDX_49eNZPcp2jP44PivOUqupw-xPtP0vckPukMUaL6YOeoLirceCTSTGqYDsqJQOSmF9-96DHZZZ7VOWYHWRV-qmSRXgc/s1600/Bike+view+from+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumT228iJtylS27xYSt14jZu5CKUUCcyIzpCdEXnj-7IuslrDX_49eNZPcp2jP44PivOUqupw-xPtP0vckPukMUaL6YOeoLirceCTSTGqYDsqJQOSmF9-96DHZZZ7VOWYHWRV-qmSRXgc/s1600/Bike+view+from+top.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Over the railing to the right. I wonder who lives in those white chalet type houses?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQpKh21dU0oIRKT6FdicU0gd7CwTHB1I5hzE1LHrEVahcJsQN6vckfwK_6vAHWpnqGABe-W_sepZdgdRwBHoBmeaiJz3MR4F2KB9YMeNcmiJtPfH6fIvWNjS4TvOSqcS-fgOpZQr5ZCo/s1600/white+buildings+from+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQpKh21dU0oIRKT6FdicU0gd7CwTHB1I5hzE1LHrEVahcJsQN6vckfwK_6vAHWpnqGABe-W_sepZdgdRwBHoBmeaiJz3MR4F2KB9YMeNcmiJtPfH6fIvWNjS4TvOSqcS-fgOpZQr5ZCo/s1600/white+buildings+from+top.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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To the left a bit. The road winds around, totally fantastic to cycle on, both up and down. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzCVF_LdYkJuh5Je27wnyTFmG0Dpu8DrjVc_8YxY9rs-I0e1SFCOX8nQPnreW9UUs3Reo9_s4hpG-p1lkaUSqEAGwRWv0BxHAnt_REIyxHL7a6aaYldCpp8cd7krsj3fScO1rHpGXyKeI/s1600/roads+view+from+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzCVF_LdYkJuh5Je27wnyTFmG0Dpu8DrjVc_8YxY9rs-I0e1SFCOX8nQPnreW9UUs3Reo9_s4hpG-p1lkaUSqEAGwRWv0BxHAnt_REIyxHL7a6aaYldCpp8cd7krsj3fScO1rHpGXyKeI/s1600/roads+view+from+top.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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A panoramic view looking towards the Visitor Centre. Great Lick Refractor to the right, 40" reflector to the left. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHUBqRSpLj2Jr_NmHzlP8zQuV6JTSBLVqnIe4RTGlGMdCrdcfcUK-HwZJjhRXbwfAvJqFM8YByh_53fJ3rstDcMSgeMSGuh5N9Svk2a3VkzXe9WgaD6jjc7e9EQO1lkYSYzPmDUyKVGc/s1600/PANO_to_Observatory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHUBqRSpLj2Jr_NmHzlP8zQuV6JTSBLVqnIe4RTGlGMdCrdcfcUK-HwZJjhRXbwfAvJqFM8YByh_53fJ3rstDcMSgeMSGuh5N9Svk2a3VkzXe9WgaD6jjc7e9EQO1lkYSYzPmDUyKVGc/s1600/PANO_to_Observatory.jpg" height="100" width="640" /></a></div>
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And finally, a panoramic view looking away from the Visitor Centre (love that cloud dew point level):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfByIjaJHUXm_bZYrI7GQFeWOuHG2OQcvVNUYGUpZBCR4a6ZOisdTOKUqMcAzQB6xIq2QLFIS_sszXXDOULCNl8r4IyYMcJDuF1ZvCaI-cbGnpGW2MpfW0iJUgYC9NrudnIwBPSXvckpQ/s1600/PANO_looking_out.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfByIjaJHUXm_bZYrI7GQFeWOuHG2OQcvVNUYGUpZBCR4a6ZOisdTOKUqMcAzQB6xIq2QLFIS_sszXXDOULCNl8r4IyYMcJDuF1ZvCaI-cbGnpGW2MpfW0iJUgYC9NrudnIwBPSXvckpQ/s1600/PANO_looking_out.jpg" height="106" width="640" /></a></div>
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It didn't rain on me much, but there was some rain that day. That rainbow ensured I was lucky! The descent was magic: 1 hour of swooping round bends, not too difficult, but you had to be wary of some debris and gravel in places. Ride within yourself is my advice. </div>
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All the photos above were taken using my mobile Android smart phone, a LG Nexus 4. </div>
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It's going to be superb to watch Stage 3 of the Tour of California on TV this year! Hope you enjoyed this account of my ride. </div>
Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-28056303598696561022014-02-06T02:54:00.001-08:002014-02-06T02:57:04.683-08:00Cyclocross World Championships 2014: Zdenek Stybar v. Sven Nys<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Y5WOtcKwUK4" width="480"></iframe><br />
Isn't this totally AWESOME?!! Talk about inspiring.Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-55665776691535169072014-02-02T16:59:00.003-08:002014-02-02T16:59:59.673-08:00Argon 18 E-80 Build Log: Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKxXRHJ6EiVWPNxQMmiUewWDaFoGS08SZAfC_XQWgneA4e7wudTFWAM6uDcFXEveo-CS-L4OuZyNRTsBLKhf9uWO5I2OZby-aL5CetwzUn9-4iXLZLUo_H8lsfPXZR0tj-kCRWayQZ28k/s1600/ArgonSupraside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKxXRHJ6EiVWPNxQMmiUewWDaFoGS08SZAfC_XQWgneA4e7wudTFWAM6uDcFXEveo-CS-L4OuZyNRTsBLKhf9uWO5I2OZby-aL5CetwzUn9-4iXLZLUo_H8lsfPXZR0tj-kCRWayQZ28k/s1600/ArgonSupraside.jpg" height="277" width="400" /></a></div>
The finished bike. Fine adjustments (e.g. saddle and tt bar angles) are still to be finalised. I'll do those as I test ride. Those wheels are sheer bling! Supra I think is a rebadged version of FFWD. These are 58mm carbon alloy clinchers, so not the lightest, but reasonably aero.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_tsKEpEfpzSuNm0N-1HDehyChR36Lm_-kyAPdhFVkhVyjTlsIAlV4QbgstjBztzHUpvOnLOhprweI8_Crp5VQZi0VTTwADv7lzItQ25VuLQ5HtdSb5dy3ss2tTYIL4wT-_8vAWZLL_t4/s1600/argoncokpit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_tsKEpEfpzSuNm0N-1HDehyChR36Lm_-kyAPdhFVkhVyjTlsIAlV4QbgstjBztzHUpvOnLOhprweI8_Crp5VQZi0VTTwADv7lzItQ25VuLQ5HtdSb5dy3ss2tTYIL4wT-_8vAWZLL_t4/s1600/argoncokpit.jpg" height="348" width="400" /></a></div>
The cockpit, Profile T2 Wing base bar, Token extensions and Zipp clips n pads. Brake levers are ultra cheap Dia Compe. Why this combo? Well it's what I had - the only part I had to buy is the Zipp clips. The ride is comfortable and smooth. Fairly lively frameset it seems. I'll learn more as I test ride.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMsQcDzB6qKuAB62DE6ueQ36dLgsQWbLHYlBs2p6sztHFBHF3uGhZwIS1IgSLR1jOnTdkRsSHwCERIJnW2yzdJfn3-yw_8xrxxwiNigE8PN89EBPmX4ARcdYxC-xesD6yPctNm0_KLpio/s1600/argonfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMsQcDzB6qKuAB62DE6ueQ36dLgsQWbLHYlBs2p6sztHFBHF3uGhZwIS1IgSLR1jOnTdkRsSHwCERIJnW2yzdJfn3-yw_8xrxxwiNigE8PN89EBPmX4ARcdYxC-xesD6yPctNm0_KLpio/s1600/argonfront.jpg" height="400" width="251" /></a></div>
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I didn't bother changing the left hand gear lever, as it was for a double anyway. So I have a nice black grey thing going on, to match the front and back fork colours. Totally by chance. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj93E0byMQ_n6RL5hhK5oZN0URSWVps-o4naJXWcJbAVzK6pdkkljMntmRRIkKHBOvbSCrvOC7Du2TY4q1P4OLtAVy2wb2W-Gi8A6Keu-4gs6YOgDTMNfQCj1RMS25DqVXDuJpGesGU6Sg/s1600/argonfbrake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj93E0byMQ_n6RL5hhK5oZN0URSWVps-o4naJXWcJbAVzK6pdkkljMntmRRIkKHBOvbSCrvOC7Du2TY4q1P4OLtAVy2wb2W-Gi8A6Keu-4gs6YOgDTMNfQCj1RMS25DqVXDuJpGesGU6Sg/s1600/argonfbrake.jpg" height="346" width="400" /></a></div>
Basic Tektro brake calipers. They work fine. External cabling, easier maintenance, but less aero. This is a 2009 frame.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNgUacdp7RDo0vhhRAWONFk3ixEsXETWClxv7r4s3dFj5cXB1Vd523rYL1dFwE84ze-R4_zMte0dOlwYG_xfSLx4hgkz7qai_3059dc2xMiFCH8xzQdKcT1ffTApfU5R4ZRVItZLLE1mA/s1600/argonfder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNgUacdp7RDo0vhhRAWONFk3ixEsXETWClxv7r4s3dFj5cXB1Vd523rYL1dFwE84ze-R4_zMte0dOlwYG_xfSLx4hgkz7qai_3059dc2xMiFCH8xzQdKcT1ffTApfU5R4ZRVItZLLE1mA/s1600/argonfder.jpg" height="317" width="400" /></a></div>
Above you can see the frame clearance for 23mm Michelin Pro 4 Comp tyres. I reckon 24 or 25mm tyres could be accommodated if desired.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2-T2EXZE0OdwvOaxl9DyK4UAm3_ZTIschV_HsiGhuLNnK9ka0G8LMEaECXLigrGkySZ4iBKZd5sXTf8yZvzgMRpyBjm01Fog12wOA5gQ0TuBb1q7ZdmfqeZfuiZTLm4HBfGCOAnOroOA/s1600/argonrearb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2-T2EXZE0OdwvOaxl9DyK4UAm3_ZTIschV_HsiGhuLNnK9ka0G8LMEaECXLigrGkySZ4iBKZd5sXTf8yZvzgMRpyBjm01Fog12wOA5gQ0TuBb1q7ZdmfqeZfuiZTLm4HBfGCOAnOroOA/s1600/argonrearb.jpg" height="360" width="400" /></a></div>
Just love that rear carbon wishbone. Flowing lines. Yes, those are SPD pedals. That's what I use.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivj-eLHzZB5-KyQrHtzfXdG9h2PopIp6R_z0gLqCu_B2Z47SVsUj3lGVcCbjY8zkmNst1ngrUINbHSkv7NKdEGJvc4TdK9fVFNpANyDddobKEVIxUMNVQEcTatVg8os1n3_rnzZ3kcjxc/s1600/argontopeaklight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivj-eLHzZB5-KyQrHtzfXdG9h2PopIp6R_z0gLqCu_B2Z47SVsUj3lGVcCbjY8zkmNst1ngrUINbHSkv7NKdEGJvc4TdK9fVFNpANyDddobKEVIxUMNVQEcTatVg8os1n3_rnzZ3kcjxc/s1600/argontopeaklight.jpg" height="381" width="400" /></a></div>
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Topeak aero rear light, is an easy fit on the Thomson seat post. May as well use that space above the seat tube fairing. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhomSDppb_zgJ6W2rXIjkcB1SaFdd633FC60iP-g_5EsV0IztROnYpqbjk868wL-Db671mWVUhlsWWt6viokE7eOKolwWdYNXdG9JGQZNqW_44BOYMckvNmspyIsp7TGjYN0HYVwVSs2dw/s1600/ArgonBraccSide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhomSDppb_zgJ6W2rXIjkcB1SaFdd633FC60iP-g_5EsV0IztROnYpqbjk868wL-Db671mWVUhlsWWt6viokE7eOKolwWdYNXdG9JGQZNqW_44BOYMckvNmspyIsp7TGjYN0HYVwVSs2dw/s1600/ArgonBraccSide.jpg" height="283" width="400" /></a></div>
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My old Pro-Lite Bracciano wheels are much lighter than the Supras and may come out on windy days or for hilly TT courses. </div>
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Next some fettling, position honing and test riding. Then on to training... </div>
Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-73203974307515015632014-01-23T07:14:00.002-08:002014-08-06T14:15:43.370-07:00Chuck's Tech Opinion: List of parts to build a bike - record all bicycle componentsTotal geek-out posting today, but I hope you find it useful! When I build a bike, in my opinion it's best practice to keep a full list of all the parts used. I've found that it becomes an incredibly useful reference guide for later on. It's also quite satisfying to do while you go about actually building the bike.<br />
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How to do that?<br />
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Well, this is what I use. Here's my list of components that are needed for building a bike (note that some of them may not be required for a particular type of machine):<br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>FRAME & MAIN BEARINGS</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Frame </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Forks</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Headset</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Cable hanger for front brake,steerer-mounted or fork mounted up-hanger</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bottom Bracket</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Protective sleeve for lining BB frame shell</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Chainstay protector</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>STEERING</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Stem</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Shim for stem</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Spacers</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Star nut or expanding bolt for carbon steerer</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Stem top cap and bolt</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Handlebars</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Gel cushioning for bars</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Handlebar tape or hand grips and finishing tape</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Handlebar end plugs</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">TT extensions, clips and all bolts</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>SITTING</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Seatpost</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Saddle clamp</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Seatpost frame clamp or bolt</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Seatpost shim</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Saddle</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>DRIVETRAIN & GEARS</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Front mech</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Front mech mounting bracket</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rear mech </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rear mech hanger</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Chain catcher or dog fang</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Chainset</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Chain</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Chain connecting link</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pedals</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Cassette or freewheel</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rear hub spacers</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Gear shifters</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Gear cables inner </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Gear cables outer sleeves</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.15; white-space: pre-wrap;">Inline cable barrel adjusters</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Downtube cable barrel adjusters / stops</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bottom bracket mounted cable guide and bolt, washer(s) </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>BRAKES</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Brake levers</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Brake cables inner</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Brake cables outer sleeve</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Front brake mechanism</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Front brake shoes and pads</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rear brake mechanism</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rear brake shoes and pads</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Barrel adjusters</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rear brake cable hanger, seat tube clamp mounted</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>CABLE RELATED</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Cable end caps, crimp on</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">End ferrules for cable outer sleeve</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Cable grommets (anti-scratch)</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tape for fixing outer sleeves to bars, etc</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>WHEELS</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wheels</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rim tape</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Inner tubes</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Valve extenders (for deep rims)</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tyres</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">QR skewers or axle & track nuts or anti-theft bolted skewers</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>ACCESSORIES</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bottle cages and bolts</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Computer, sensors and mountings</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Light fittings</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mudguards</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Luggage mountings</span></div>
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So what I do is list these in a spreadsheet, e.g. on Google Drive so as to be able to access it from anywhere. Then I note details next to each, such as cost, supplier, brand and model/type, frame number, and anything notable, etc. As I said, total geek-out, but well worth it when three years later, you're trying to remember the specs of something or where you bought a part from. The spreadsheet can also be used calculate how much the bike cost to put it together, and more importantly, whether resources are being spent wisely on important stuff, or not!</div>
Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-21975738957459978102014-01-19T14:56:00.000-08:002014-01-19T14:56:43.024-08:00Challenge Tyres: sealing side walls Seamgrip v. Copydex<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
These Challenge Grifo are beautiful clinchers. Note that Challenge call them Open Tubulars meaning they're made like their tubulars before fitting a clincher style bead. Extremely high TPI, so very supple. Since they're made of cotton, it is advisable to seal the tyre walls. I've done an experiment here, top one is sealed in Pritt Copydex (latex base solvent free glue). It had nil effect to the feel of the tyre. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtao8TyAjCYjtdpsjqfvl0Eb-xeB_d6fBEGGvOc4ukMRzY0xdyXVKlafgXklL0zXtq0u0kTD5vqlKgvfPgRqDVJCsYKJUbgOswOdnT1H5Ce5YQaR8QQV0sVxknJke0Bi8hFORgxj_94vM/s1600/IMG_20130928_132504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtao8TyAjCYjtdpsjqfvl0Eb-xeB_d6fBEGGvOc4ukMRzY0xdyXVKlafgXklL0zXtq0u0kTD5vqlKgvfPgRqDVJCsYKJUbgOswOdnT1H5Ce5YQaR8QQV0sVxknJke0Bi8hFORgxj_94vM/s400/IMG_20130928_132504.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
The one below is sealed with McNett Seamgrip, a tent and camping equipment sealant. Of the two, I found that Copydex is much less messy to apply, but no where near as robust as the Seamgrip. In the photo above, you can see the edges peeling. However, after a number of cross races, the Copydex had not come off. So, it's worth doing, even though the Seamgrip is better. The Seamgripped carcass was perhaps a tad less flexible, but the main drawback was it's gloopy consistency and difficulty in application. Ideally, if the Seamgrip could be diluted down a bit before application it may be easier, but I fear that can only be done with pretty nasty benzene based solvents. If anyone knows of a harmless solvent for Seamgrip, please do comment below!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTOwtxYaXaXOzCgTHMCJF_YFOsmUSJaMGTNmEAsIs_Yr_6LrKCdKu7v1bjHw87QqexsGRqpU1vlD3MeHSqnu__mOW_Bylg13jIVpCVd425hoppbFOqNinbr_biMjsiWwbNeebnjE9y4o/s1600/IMG_20130928_132526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTOwtxYaXaXOzCgTHMCJF_YFOsmUSJaMGTNmEAsIs_Yr_6LrKCdKu7v1bjHw87QqexsGRqpU1vlD3MeHSqnu__mOW_Bylg13jIVpCVd425hoppbFOqNinbr_biMjsiWwbNeebnjE9y4o/s400/IMG_20130928_132526.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-50946501832024221942014-01-19T12:37:00.001-08:002014-02-02T17:00:21.472-08:00Argon 18 E-80 Build Log: Part 1New project a real TT bike. Here are the first photos:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXKflGk8bprna531pHFVqh-POmrozNXBeklMjnl6G4TChKMmTnLOj9wBkEYRMQDofOQxlPcTnhSqNNTUx2prwxZXshQwd8il6O0QKAp6yogFlJ6JZskbpTI3kJW5wxKjC_aPTZXrb__Hg/s1600/bishpancakesbikes+011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXKflGk8bprna531pHFVqh-POmrozNXBeklMjnl6G4TChKMmTnLOj9wBkEYRMQDofOQxlPcTnhSqNNTUx2prwxZXshQwd8il6O0QKAp6yogFlJ6JZskbpTI3kJW5wxKjC_aPTZXrb__Hg/s1600/bishpancakesbikes+011.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
It's a 2009 frame, interesting because the central trapezium is alloy tubing, but the rear triangle is carbon. So there is a carbon-alloy bond all down the seat tube (like the old Mercury) although it's been tastefully painted over:<br />
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Here is a piccie of the old Argon 18 Mercury, showing the carbon-alloy join, for comparison:<br />
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The headset is a FSA IS-2 (a standard integrated type). No major news there, except that I'm now wondering whether I've cut the steerer too short. Now that'd be a schoolboy error, if ever I saw one!<br />
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Let's see. More to come soon.Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-1529781675875639792014-01-12T15:48:00.000-08:002014-01-12T15:48:03.148-08:00British Cyclocross Championships 2014, DerbyThe best of UK cyclocross talent were at Moorways Leisure centre today. Here are some photos from the elite mens race. The pit is always a busy place:<br />
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Power washers at work. I wonder what's in the yellow wheelie bin...</div>
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Ian Bibby getting down. Now that's not a Genesis bike, is it? It be a Ridley.<br />
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Salsa in the mud. Look at those feet go! </div>
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Balletic movement by Ian Field. Total concentration he was, all day, on the way to what I think is a threepeat national title. </div>
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Mucky sticky mud everywhere, causing errors. But he was probably thinking "this is not as nasty as Namur!"<br />
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Take a look at Ian Field's Focus (yes, that's a Specialized, but I was referring to his eyes, not the bike brand!).<br />
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He made it look so easy... He dealt with the pressure really well. It's tough at the top!!<br />
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Nick Craig, proper punchy power.<br />
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I love this picture. This is what Cyclocross is about!<br />
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Hargroves lead out on to the "dancefloor".<br />
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Stu Bowers getting shouted at:<br />
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Vicious Velo, looking well vicious. </div>
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Yep, an interesting day out (remember to take a spare pair of shoes though!) Plus there was the womens event (won by Helen Wyman, her 8th title), Juniors and U23 (which we missed). All this for the price of a small donation to the local Scout organisation - you've gotta go watch some cyclocross. </div>
Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831143520966295291.post-18313358675433053292013-06-19T23:36:00.002-07:002013-06-19T23:44:32.259-07:00Neat Exustar CK2 Covers for SPD CleatsThese are fantastic, and great value for money too. I bought two pairs. No more Bambi-on-Ice moments in the Cafe!<br />
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Here you can see the other side of the little rubber cap. They slot very easily over the cleat and when you're about to get on the bike, they remove easily and occupy a tiny amount of space in your jersey pocket. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtMf3oPDgvgReM2eUiEJCz2eiTOzLeWDXmpqC-X5Rczl3WfPVMEVDYi2yyaqkPQWHIuKYHfBrQwJtTGQbM3pshT8NHR3v57X_-icsBFntGfd2XSBVkeuDA_Zt59f9mqJXbxGgGAVYe0uM/s1600/DSCF4366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtMf3oPDgvgReM2eUiEJCz2eiTOzLeWDXmpqC-X5Rczl3WfPVMEVDYi2yyaqkPQWHIuKYHfBrQwJtTGQbM3pshT8NHR3v57X_-icsBFntGfd2XSBVkeuDA_Zt59f9mqJXbxGgGAVYe0uM/s1600/DSCF4366.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The packaging. Sorry, I couldn't rotate these photos, so you'll have to rubber neck a little. Click them to enlarge. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4S4nK5Bodh_Otxr15hUynqvDn5CWbXjwvp7wbTHGMJLoPOYCKffmUtdXrgqwmn9vd_Zt9rJmCybKH2CZq2zFpuKGi55e-2k2xmaHoB8OT0uaQY44dncMHznlkuZMcgmxhgWpftzFQ2S4/s1600/DSCF4364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4S4nK5Bodh_Otxr15hUynqvDn5CWbXjwvp7wbTHGMJLoPOYCKffmUtdXrgqwmn9vd_Zt9rJmCybKH2CZq2zFpuKGi55e-2k2xmaHoB8OT0uaQY44dncMHznlkuZMcgmxhgWpftzFQ2S4/s1600/DSCF4364.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Exustar do various versions for different cleat types, as per the table below (click to enlarge).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAVkboCyisiDowVWAe7p5SmLV7m-ip0zMslFYy7eoGVEKBO168yGS8x4MoTB3in5Eb8kHd6tTUDAKvLhQYgSbY_j8nzDzXln4gEgYW1CJfdKIJm5Dl1DRVkUaDmfb7u4YU-AlK6K8F2U/s1600/DSCF4365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAVkboCyisiDowVWAe7p5SmLV7m-ip0zMslFYy7eoGVEKBO168yGS8x4MoTB3in5Eb8kHd6tTUDAKvLhQYgSbY_j8nzDzXln4gEgYW1CJfdKIJm5Dl1DRVkUaDmfb7u4YU-AlK6K8F2U/s1600/DSCF4365.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And a little bird on a fencepost, just for the sake of it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifu-K_h7SCqo0TAh4-W1Wf2Qiwm2OJvLrd1k2q4zXnGaLGOwpzJeUnBIjqetcq8zh9iWgeOxBHVGiCJWnUu7TlPlS746MpCngSxtgUQJyCKRNZau0qIDNYilwFJifPH9xMM2u0XhAvKN0/s1600/DSCF4384BlubirdCrop2+-+Edited.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifu-K_h7SCqo0TAh4-W1Wf2Qiwm2OJvLrd1k2q4zXnGaLGOwpzJeUnBIjqetcq8zh9iWgeOxBHVGiCJWnUu7TlPlS746MpCngSxtgUQJyCKRNZau0qIDNYilwFJifPH9xMM2u0XhAvKN0/s1600/DSCF4384BlubirdCrop2+-+Edited.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Chuck Gliderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09254250496140410066noreply@blogger.com0